A Man and His Vineyards – Pioneering Biodynamic Practices in the Rheingau
Alex’s passion is devoted to the vineyards, embodying the image of an archetypal winemaker: rubber boots and a complete Engelbert Strauss ensemble. However, he still needs to work on the corresponding vineyard vehicle – an old Land Rover. But now let’s get serious.
Alex’s clear focus lies on vineyard work, guided by the motto “Back to the roots“. Employing biodynamic methods without rigid dogma, he aims to revive the original Rheingau style in his Rieslings. In the cellar, the wines are meant to be guided rather than manipulated. He staunchly rejects excessive intervention and the use of clarifying agents. All wines undergo spontaneous fermentation and extended aging on the lees. He also occasionally experiments with adding whole, healthy grapes to the fermented wine in barrels. This undertaking results in vibrant, complex, and extremely drinkable Rieslings — a style that is somewhat unique in the Rheingau.
I had the opportunity to gain a comprehensive impression of his 2022 wines during an intensive tasting of his barrels in January 2023. Later in the summer, I had the opportunity to sample some already bottled wines. What was the takeaway? Well, with just his second vintage, Alex has managed to establish a clear characteristic for his wines. Alongside a consistently restrained Riesling fruitiness, his wines shine with delicate herbal notes, bright blossoms, a saline structure, a certain purity and substantial depth. This holds true from his estate wine to his single-vineyard releases. Impressive.
I vividly remember the barrel samples from Kapellenberg and Schlossberg. Both left me speechless, evoking an undeniable sense of goosebumps — a fitting description of the profound impact these wines had on me.