New day bar at the Theresienwiese

Since spring 2025, this small day bar has welcomed its guests with an interior that is far more carefully considered than it may first appear. High ceilings, dark wood, warm light, earthenware water bottles, honest tableware. No design overload, no Instagram restaurant. More like the apartment of a very stylish friend who just happens to cook brilliantly.

And perhaps that is exactly the greatest strength of this place. Nothing feels constructed.
In a city whose gastronomy often swings between loud concepts and heavy fine dining, Mokum manages something that has become astonishingly rare: genuine lightness and joy. Not superficially light, but precisely so.

Behind the concept are Julia Kolbeck, Florian Rottensteiner and Tim Meier. Trained, among others, under Heinz Winkler and Tohru Nakamura, yet without any need to simply copy their styles. Instead, the three of them have translated fine dining into a language that feels far more suited to everyday life. Less choreography, more feeling. Less staging, more hospitality.

Finally a fairly priced wine list in Munich again

Julia serves herself, explains the wines, welcomes guests with a calmness that immediately feels good. Florian and Tim bring plates, explain dishes, stand right there in the room. You sense straight away that nobody here is working against the guest, but with them.
The menu is deliberately small. Perhaps a dozen dishes. And it does not need more than that.

To start: oysters, olives, house-made sourdough bread. Then dishes that hover somewhere between France, a modern day bar and a relaxed neighbourhood restaurant. Cooked with precision, but without the raised finger so many ambitious kitchens like to bring to the table. And that is exactly what makes it so much fun.

At least as exciting is the wine list. Finely curated, with remarkable vintage depth and plenty of big names that are rarely this easy-going to drink in Munich. What impresses most, though, is less the selection itself than the way it is priced. Fair. Truly fair. Especially in Munich, almost a small sensation. A wine list where the second and third bottle still feel like a pleasure — and that is exactly how this wonderfully relaxed mood emerges at the table, the kind that so often makes great wine evenings, or wine days, so special.

A table full of wine

Mokum understands something very important: good gastronomy does not automatically come from complexity. It comes from atmosphere, timing, warmth and people who understand how to give guests a feeling.

That is why the sentence on the menu — A Home Away From Home — does not sound like marketing here. It simply feels honest. And perhaps that describes this place better than anything else.

Mokum is not a restaurant for grand gestures. Not a place you go to in order to be seen. It is one of those rare places where you suddenly stay longer than planned, order another bottle, and eventually realise that the entire evening felt completely effortless.

For me, currently Munich’s finest day bar.