The Opening: A Welcoming Atmosphere

Grapes, known for its cozy, timeless ambiance and excellent wine list, provided the perfect setting for my first organized wine tasting themed “Riesling Meets Terroir.” Bernd Großschädl’s subtle yet attentive demeanor created an environment where everyone immediately felt at ease. The combination of small bites, ever-filled glasses, and the warm flair of the wine bar set the tone for an unforgettable afternoon.

I led the tasting myself, supported by the esteemed geologist Annette Bette, who enriched us with her deep knowledge of the different soil types, offering valuable and sometimes urgently needed background information. The wines were tasted blind; only the seven soil types in focus were known to the 14 participants.

Note: The following wine notes are not intended as a detailed qualitative description, but rather as a general impression gathered from the participants’ remarks. The aim of the tasting was to trace a potential influence of the soil on the wine in a relaxed atmosphere characterized by mutual exchange. Therefore, I did not take detailed tasting notes.

Gypsum Keuper: A Subtle Beginning

Our tasting “Riesling Meets Terroir” began with Rieslings from gypsum keuper. This soil consists of sandstone, gypsum deposits, clay silt, and colorful marl. It is a heavy soil that swells with rain and stores water, while it becomes cracked during dry periods. The 2016 Gips Marienglas Riesling GG from Aldinger and the Julius-Echter-Berg Riesling GG from Wirsching were different, yet each had its own charm.

While the Marienglas initially had a smoky, chalky, and spicy nose, it became unusually warm, malty, and creamy on the palate. It was almost as if the wine exuded a touch of mineral warmth. In contrast, the Julius-Echter-Berg impressed with citrusy cool brilliance, fine saltiness, crisp acidity, and a polished, fresh finish. The mineral structure was especially noticeable in the latter, yet it seemed as though the winemaker’s signature overshadowed the soil’s true character.

Nonetheless, we all agreed that the gypsum keuper influence in both wines was rather subtle. Was it the terroir or the winemaker’s hand that defined these wines? This question remained open.

Devonian Slate: The Slate Revelation

Things got exciting when we moved on to Devonian slate. This soil is characterized by compressed sedimentary rock layers deposited in the deep sea under high pressure. Fun fact: This is why slate can be easily split into sheets. Due to its dark color, slate retains heat excellently and often imparts a noticeable mineral depth to wines. Both, the 2018 Scharzhofberger Riesling GG from Van Volxem and the 2017 Niederberg Helden Riesling GG from Schloss Lieser (both from magnum bottles) impressively showcased how deep and complex slate wines can become.

The Scharzhofberger initially seemed rather reserved but offered juicy, sweet fruit and a long, mineral yet slightly sweet finish. The Heldenberg was clearer, tauter, and displayed a cool, vibrant acidity. Both wines were defined by their pronounced mineral structure, making them unmistakable representatives of Mosel slate.

Here, everyone quickly agreed: The slate unmistakably left its mark on these wines – a mineral intensity that was impossible to overlook.

Phyllite Slate: A Hint of Smoke

The phyllite slate flight was more subtle. This soil, rich in mica and quartz, is said to impart an elegant structure with a hint of smoke to wines. The rock forms through the metamorphosis of clay slate and eventually transforms into mica schist. It is a crystalline slate with a greenish-gray color and silky sheen. The 2019 Abtei “1937” Riesling from Kruger-Rumpf and the 2016 Gräfenberg Riesling GG from Robert Weil both hinted at smoky minerality and a gentle elegance.

The Abtei especially impressed with its balanced acidity, refined depth, and cool stringency, while the Gräfenberg initially seemed closed and only gained depth and elegance over time. Admittedly, I had higher expectations for the Gräfenberg, but I must confess that I am not entirely unbiased here, as I have been closely connected to the wines from Kiedrich and the people at Robert Weil for many years. Therefore, I might be somewhat too critical at this point.

In both wines, the mineral character of phyllite slate was noticeable, but less pronounced than in the slate flight.

Quartzite: An Elegant Enigma

Quartzite, an extremely hard and dense rock composed of sandstone, sparked controversy among us. It often forms crystals with a wide variety of shapes and colors, whose surfaces exhibit a glassy luster. Due to its relatively high pH, wines grown on quartzite tend to be low in acidity. Note: This did not apply to the two wines presented.

The 2017 Burgberg Riesling GG from Schlossgut Diel and the 2017 Scharlachberg Riesling GG from Wagner-Stempel both displayed a fine elegance, but the influence of the soil was, at least for us, subtle. The Burgberg shone with bright, yellow fruit aromas, a bitter minerality, and a long, firm finish (one of my personal highlights of the tasting), while the Scharlachberg surprised with chalky freshness, a certain creaminess, and a hint of bacon on the palate.

This flight sparked lively discussion within the group. Both wines showed a clear, almost crystalline structure, yet the quartzite as a defining element was hard to grasp. Some found the wines “elegant and straightforward,” but felt they lacked what they called “terroir presence.” It was almost as if the quartzite operated in the background, lending a fine, but not dominant, note to the wines. Despite the high quality of both wines, many felt that the specific “fingerprint” of the soil was missing. The winemaker’s influence seemed more dominant than the terroir.

Limestone vs. Shell Limestone: More in Common or Contrasts?

One of the afternoon’s highlights was undoubtedly the flight of Rieslings from limestone and shell limestone. The 2016 Morstein Riesling from Dreissigacker and the 2016 Stettener Stein Riesling GG from Weingut am Stein impressively demonstrated how strongly these soils can shape the character of a Riesling.

Limestone and shell limestone are two rocks with different properties yet the same origin. Limestone is a hard sedimentary rock formed by the deposition of calcareous shells from small marine animals, often appearing in light gray to yellowish colors. Shell limestone, a special form of limestone, contains particularly many shell remains. These calcareous soils are highly valued among winemakers because they give wines good acidity and structure. They retain heat well and are ideal for lively, racy wines from cool climates.

The Morstein appeared powerful, with an almost salty minerality that rolled across the tongue. Nutty, with a smoky finish. The Stein (also a personal highlight) captivated with chalky freshness and complex aromas. It combined ripe citrus fruits, citrus zest, and stone fruit with nutty and floral nuances, as well as a hint of smoke and peppery spice. On the palate, it showed fine acidity, candied citrus fruits, and an almost creamy texture that unfolded further with air. The finish was juicy yet slightly sweet, underpinned by ethereal notes. A multifaceted wine that left a lasting impression.

In this flight, the group quickly agreed: Both wines seemed to radiate directly from the soil. Limestone/shell limestone was clearly tasted in its purest form here.

Rotliegend: A Mineral Explosion

“Rotliegend” is an old miners’ term. It owes its striking red color to hematite. The soil is formed from calcareous clay, silt, and sandstones. Rotliegend has only limited water retention capacity but provides good soil aeration. However, root penetration of the deeper rock is difficult.

Both, the 2016 Pettenthal Riesling GG from Kühling-Gillot and the 2016 Kastanienbusch Riesling GG from Ökonomierat Rebholz showed dense, almost earthy depth and clear hints of red fruits (redcurrant). The Kastanienbusch was powerful, dark, and present with herbal-spicy notes, while the Pettenthal started with a reduced nose but then revealed substantial dark spice and juicy, complex fruit.

The group could not reach a consensus here. Some guests spoke of “earthy elegance,” others of a “primal power,” while still others could not identify clear differences between the two wines.

Volcanic Terroir: Melaphyr and Basalt as a Firework

To conclude the regular flights, we focused on volcanic terroir – melaphyr and basalt. The 2018 Bastei Riesling GG from Gut Hermannsberg and the 2014 Pechstein Riesling GG from Bassermann-Jordan were in the glass.

Melaphyr is a fine-grained rock with a color palette ranging from black to reddish-brown. The bubble cavities are like small treasure chests filled with minerals such as calcite and quartz. This gives the wines an exciting spiciness. Basalt is formed when magma from volcanic eruptions cools down rapidly, resulting in fine-grained, dense rock. This soil is rich in minerals and has an excellent water storage capacity.

The Bastei had this taut nose of candied citrus, stone fruit and herbs, with hints of black berries and smoke. It was super juicy with ripe but still youthful fruit, fine acidity and grippy phenolics. Slightly sweet on the finish, yet mineral and juicy. The Pechstein, on the other hand, had a dark, smoky aroma of citrus fruit, stone fruit and mustard cucumber, with a hint of herbs and bacon. The palate was dominated by ripe yellow fruit, curry-hot spice and salty notes. There was also a hint of butter in the juicy, mineral finish.

Both Rieslings showed how clearly volcanic soils can lend wines extraordinary depth, smokiness and intensity. The terroir was clearly tangible here – a dark, deep energy that made both wines unique.

The Finale: A Yeasty, Sweet Seduction

To conclude the afternoon, two exceptional Rieslings were presented: the FIO 2015 by Niepoort and Kettern, and the 2003 Rausch Riesling Auslese by Forstmeister Geltz Zilliken. For those who have been following the tasting and the accompanying text closely, you might now be wondering: What? Why on earth is this guy now throwing two such different Rieslings into the mix, ones that don’t seem to fit the theme of ‘Riesling meets Terroir’? And then in a single flight, no less? These are absolutely valid questions, to which I have a rather unfortunate yet, hopefully, understandable answer.

Initially, I had planned an additional flight focusing on Rieslings with extended lees aging and aged, off-dry Rieslings. Unfortunately, the counterparts to FIO and Rausch didn’t arrive in time. However, as I was determined to showcase both wines, I decided on the spur of the moment to pour them together at the end, alongside some flatbread, bread, and Iberico ham. To answer the obvious question: both wines paired perfectly with the food, making for a wonderful conclusion to an all-around successful tasting.

The FIO Riesling by Niepoort and Kettern was a prime example of the old Mosel school. After three years of lees aging in a 60-year-old Fuder barrel, it spends additional years maturing in the bottle before being released. Deep golden yellow, complex, and almost sherry-like in its depth and structure. The 2003 Auslese from Zilliken impressed with its exotic fruit, finesse, and dancing lightness. Despite the hot vintage, the wine remained fresh and vibrant, with dramatic acidity and hedonistic juiciness.

The Insights: Riesling Meets Terroir or Winemaker’s Magic?

What remains after such an afternoon? From the journey of “Riesling meets Terroir”? Well, the realization that soil isn’t always equally perceptible in the wine. While some soils, like slate and limestone, clearly left their mark, others like gypsum marl and quartzite were more subtle. Terroir is important, no doubt, but it shouldn’t be considered in isolation. Ultimately, the dialogue between soil and winemaker is what distinguishes good wine from great wine. The best combination, in my view, is one where a talented winemaker and outstanding terroir complement each other.

A big thank you goes to Annette for her enlightening introductions to the various soil types, to Bernd and the Grapes for the wonderful hospitality, to the winemakers for generously opening their treasure troves, and to all the participants who made this tasting so unforgettable It was an intense afternoon with engaging conversations in a relaxed atmosphere. Wine doesn’t have to be snobby – even if the topic was quite freaky. Conveying this was my goal.

The overwhelmingly positive feedback from the participants has inspired me to organize more tastings of this kind on different themes in the future. I’m already looking forward to the next time we embark on a new journey of discovery!