Recently, I was invited to a blind tasting hosted by our Munich wine circle. On this occasion, our host not only elevated the culinary experience to new heights but also delved into a theme that had been somewhat underrepresented in our circle: Chardonnay. The choice of grape variety was the only restriction placed on the guests – still or sparkling, the choice was theirs. Everything was set for an unforgettable evening, which, spoiler alert, it turned out to be.
Max Kaindl, 05. December 2023
Reading time about 5 minutes
The question that lingered in my mind before this blind tasting was: “Is the concept of ABC (Anything But Chardonnay) still valid, or can winemakers outside the famous Burgundy region also produce world-class Chardonnay?” As the majority of participants brought “old world” Chardonnay, the question could only be answered to a limited extent. Nevertheless, the evening proved to be enlightening.
In total, we sampled 11 wines, complemented by three impeccably prepared courses by our host, Alex. While the primary goal wasn’t to meticulously pair the wines with each course, we surprisingly managed to find fitting matches. Now, let me share my impressions of the wines.
Side note: We did not categorize the wines directly into pairs for tasting. Nevertheless, for enhanced comparison and readability, I have opted to organize them into pairs. The tasting order aligns with the tasting notes from top to bottom. For comprehensive details about my tasting notes and wine evaluations click here.
Puligny-Montrachet 2021, Pierre Vincent Girardin (PVG) – Burgundy
Nose:
Vibrant Chardonnay with fresh stone-fruit, almond, and roasted hazelnut aromas, complemented by subtle salt-mineral tones and an elegant hint of citrus freshness.
Palate:
Full-bodied, juicy-fresh texture with gripping acidity and a dense, concentrated structure.
Finish:
Concludes with a fine, salty, and succulent finish, revealing surprisingly mature fruit for a cool year. Demands decanting. – excellent
Puligny-Montrachet 2018, Benoit Ente – Burgundy
Nose:
Releases the enchanting fragrance of white blossoms and succulent fruits, evolving within a distinctive, gracefully mineral framework.
Palate:
Tasteful opulence, with a creamy, caressing texture that captivates the palate. Still fresh thanks to a charmingly vibrant acid-structure.
Finish:
Concluding with candied orange peel, the finish is a dance of juicy elegance and a lingering, tantalizing smoothness that leaves a lasting impression. – very good
Les Brulées 2018, Domaine de Saint Pierre – Jura
Nose:
Complex bouquet featuring ripe kumquats, baked apple, subtly smoky flint, all intertwined with faint oxidative notes of walnuts.
Palate:
Dense and well-structured texture, immediately engaged by a taut acidity that gracefully transitions into a saline quality, imparting powerful pressure.
Finish:
A delicate touch of tannins surfaces with aeration, revealing hints of marzipan, exquisite minerality, and an exceptionally long finish. The warmth of the vintage is subtly perceptible, creating a wine that is robust, characterful, and sophisticated. However, it did not align with my personal preferences. – very good
Ried Pössnitzberg Alte Reben 2018, Erwin Sabathi – Steiermark
Nose:
Elegantly perfumed with white fruit, delicate reduction, a touch of yeast, and a hint of exoticism perhaps a whisper of mango and white stone.
Palate:
The intricate interplay continues on the palate, revealing a juicy texture with balanced acidity, a subtle touch of wood, fine minerality, and a gentle dance without overwhelming pressure — though it lacks a bit an extensive length (in my opinion).
Finish:
Firmly and concentrated, with ripe, caressing smoothness. Delightfully beautiful. – excellent
Mersault Coeur de Roches 2015, Frédéric Magnien – Burgundy
Nose:
Emanating fragrances of stone fruits, crushed stones, lightly toasted nuts, and a subtle herbal nuance.
Palate:
Medium-bodied, offering a fresh and enduring taste profile. Exhibits the quintessential traits of white Burgundy, showcasing richness in clay and limestone characteristics.
Finish:
Concludes with a lingering freshness (surprisingly for this hot vintage) and characteristics of finesse typical for classic white Burgundian. – excellent
Chardonnay R 2020, Ökonomierat Rebholz – Pfalz
Nose:
Abundant flintiness with pronounced reduction, dark tones, and a subtle hint of caramel.
Palate:
Delicate yet powerful, revealing roasted quince and caramel-Fleur de Sel. A captivating wave of refined saltiness follows the intense limestone minerality, offering a characterful interplay of salinity, vibrant acidity, and Palatinate creaminess.
Finish:
Concludes with a lingering essence of character, distinguishing itself by inviting contemplation and appreciation.
Characterful and distinctive – unlike the other participants, this wine didn’t resonate with me. – very good
Drei Dörfer 2021, Franz Keller – Baden
Nose:
Austere and vibrant Chardonnay with refined oak and subtle reduction. Quince, beeswax and flint aromas mingle with dark spices and a touch of smokiness. Complex and polished.
Palate:
Vibrant and saline on the palate, featuring quince, citrus, and a hint of funk. The yeast adds richness, creating a harmonious interplay of substance and saltiness.
Finish:
Concludes with a demanding yet rewarding finish, showcasing impressive texture and length. Decanting is recommended for full appreciation. – very good
(Two participants independently selected this wine for the blind tasting.)
Hugues de Coulmet Blanc de Blancs Demi-Sec, Pierre Moncuit – Champagne
Nose:
A nod to Champagne’s sweet past, aromas of fresh bread, roasted almonds, apples, and pears enchant the nose.
Palate:
On the palate one discovers brioche, candied apricots, yellow apples, overripe pears, mirabelles, white peaches, and a hint of lime juice. All combined by a harmonies mousse.
Finish:
A juicy, not overly sweet Champagne with fine, persistent bubbles and a delightful fruity finish. Extremely charming and tasty (yet lacking a bit in complexity), especially paired with desserts. – very good
Le Calvaire 2019, Domaine des Carlines – Jura
Nose:
Subtle ripe yellow fruit, roasted nuts, and a hint of mineral spice.
Palate:
Complex and powerful with great freshness, intense minerality, and impressive length. A variety of flavors including flint, green apples, honey blossoms, and citrus fruits. Juicy acidity balances the noticeable full-bodied character.
Finish:
Lingering, slowly tapering off, though, for some, it may lean towards a bit too broad. – very good
Chablis Terroir de Fleys 2022, Patrick Piuze – Chablis
Nose:
Extremely floral and fragrant, this wine offers ripe fruit and a juicy, tension-filled character with well-defined edges.
Palate:
Brilliant and lively with candied lime, pear, melon, and white peach flavors, guided by electric acidity and a mineral-rich core. Despite the warmth of the vintage, it maintains vibrancy.
Finish:
Lingers with candied lime, showcasing depth and vibrancy, subtly reminding of this warm and dry vintage. – very good
What can we take away from such a wine-filled evening? Well, for one, it’s clear that our host, Alex, is a culinary maestro – and happens to keep some rather impressive wines in his cellar ;-).
But on a more serious note, even without showcasing any ‘big names’ like Grand Cru or GG Chardonnays, the tasting unmistakably highlighted the potential of this remarkably versatile grape variety. It has the ability to mirror vintage characteristics (for instance, hot and dry vintages like 2018 or 2022 exhibited ripe, warm fruit notes and a fuller body) while also transparently conveying the winemaker’s skill and influence on the wine (considerations such as harvest timing, type, and extent of wood usage, etc.).
Another, and quite gratifying, revelation – especially in light of the significant price trends in Burgundy – is the rising quality of wines originating outside the Burgundy region. In Austria, Germany, and other parts of France, notably in Jura, there are Chardonnays that are comparable to or can become equivalent to their great counterparts from the Cote d’Or.
So, exploring beyond the well-known names in France’s Chardonnay heartland proves worthwhile. And this not only brings joy to the wallet but undoubtedly delights the discerning palate as well.
