A spring day in Ingelheim. The sun low in the sky, the light soft, gravel crunching beneath our shoes. Marius Frick at my side — both of us full of anticipation. It’s my first visit to Carsten Saalwächter. A winemaker in his early 30s already crafting world-class Silvaner. And doing so without any fanfare.
Max Kaindl, June 03, 2025
Reading time about 5 minutes
Silvaner. Saalwächter. Satisfying.
The man behind the Silvaner obsession
Carsten Saalwächter isn’t one to explain himself at length. Not a showman. More the quiet type — listens more than he talks. Until it comes to wine. Then he’s sharp. Precise. Direct. And the longer you speak with him, the more you realise: his path may have been short, but far from easy.
No university route: instead, apprenticeships at Ziereisen, Becker, Stodden, and in Burgundy. No recipe-driven winemaking: experience. No safety nets: intuition. His cellar in Ingelheim is his lab — but without white gloves. Here, it’s hands-on. Taste. Adjust. Make. And it’s precisely this unpretentious approach that gives his Silvaners such authenticity.
That today, in his early 30s, he’s considered one of Germany’s most exciting Silvaner winemakers is no accident. It’s the result of clear intent, serious skill — and a dose of boldness that this grape so often lacks in Germany.
I’ve been following his wines for years — especially the Silvaners. They have a stubborn clarity. Certainly not made to please. But to convince — at least they convince me. With depth, tension, and that underlying energy so typical of Carsten’s style.
Why Silvaner, of all things?
“Because no one else is doing it.” Carsten’s answer is as simple as it is telling. Truth is, Silvaner in Germany is often either overthought or overlooked. Neither approach interests him. Instead: shell limestone soils, old vines, large old oak barrels, and a style you’d sooner associate with Meursault or Jura than the Rhine.
After a long chat in the garden, we head down to the old cellar. A few barrel samples later, it’s clear: these wines aren’t an accident. They’re conviction in a glass.
Today, Silvaner makes up over 60% of his production — a statement in itself. And after tasting the 2022s, one thing was certain for me: what he’s doing with this variety isn’t just distinctive — it’s downright brilliant.
Four Silvaners, four facets — 2022 in focus
Silvaner Alte Reben 2022
Limestone, east-facing slope, vines nearly 50 years old. No big entrance — subtle depth.
On the nose: smoke, hay, a touch of stone fruit — restrained, almost shy. On the palate: concentrated, smoky, cool, with fine grip.
For me, the most elegant of the four — carried by an inner density that’s rare. A wine that doesn’t try to be everything — it knows exactly what it is.
Silvaner Steinkante 2022
The newcomer. And what a debut.
The nose is bold: brown butter, black tea, popcorn, dark stone. Zero fruit, zero charm offensive. Maximum character. On the palate: taut, salty, with that oyster-shell note I usually only find in Jura.
If you want to see just how uncompromising Silvaner can be — this is it.
Silvaner St. Laurentius 2022
The Teschke legacy. Wild, yet precise.
Turmeric, quince peel, a hint of kiwi, plus dark stone. Huge presence on the palate, yet everything stays focused. Tannins are there — noticeable, but fine. The tension between site and winemaker’s hand works beautifully.
This isn’t an easy wine — but it’s an honest one.
Silvaner Grauer Stein 2022
The grand cru of the quartet. Reduction, citrus, limestone. Dense, cool, almost austere.
On the nose: somewhere between Meursault and Arbois. On the palate: crystalline, salty, pure. Not a wine to sip casually — it demands your attention. The wine has drive, grip, length — and a near-tangible minerality that lingers quietly but persistently.
For me, one of the finest Silvaners I’ve ever tasted.
Looking back — and ahead
My visit to Carsten wasn’t some grand revelation. I was too prepared for that. I knew what to expect — just not how clear and uncompromising it would taste. His wines are the opposite of fashionable. They follow no trend. Carsten isn’t just a Silvaner winemaker. He’s a Silvaner thinker. He’s pulling the variety out of the shadows in Rheinhessen, showing that Silvaner doesn’t have to be neutral — it can be vibrant, edgy, complex. His wines polarise. And perhaps that’s exactly what makes them so special.
That he’s pushed Silvaner into the top tier of German winemaking is no hype. It’s craftsmanship, origin, and conviction. All without the noise.
Pictures: © The Art of Riesling – Maximilian Kaindl
