On a sunny day in late August, I found myself back in Rheinhessen — specifically, in Alsheim, visiting Elisabeth Muth of the VDP Rappenhof estate. For the past four years, I’ve come here regularly to taste her wines and discuss the ongoing developments at the winery. But this visit was different. With the 2024 vintage, significant changes are underway. Her husband, Johannes, has joined the team, overseeing vineyard operations — and together, they’re giving the estate a bold new direction.

Max Kaindl, 27. October 2024
reading time about 8 minutes

Rappenhof 2.0: Tradition and Vision –
A Winery on the Rise

A Nervous Season in the Vineyard: The Challenges of 2024

Even as we made a small detour to the famous Alsheim loess slopes before our tasting, I could sense Elisabeth’s mind was still on the past year’s trials. “2024 was really a nail-biter,” she said as we stepped onto the soft loess soil, which spread like a carpet beneath our feet. “The wet weather tested us like never before. It was nearly impossible to keep the grapes healthy.” Extreme conditions demanded enormous effort in the vineyards, and at the same time, they faced the task of rebuilding almost the entire team — a challenge they tackled together, somehow pulling it off.

The loess soil we were walking on is a natural wonder. Elisabeth explained its water-retention abilities and how it gives the vines an advantage in dry years. But this year, with all the rain, it became a burden. The constantly damp ground increased the disease pressure on the vines. “It’s been a year of constant adaptation,” she shared. “We had to take nature as it came.”

Proof in the Glass

Back at the Rappenhof winery, we settled into the winery’s idyllic garden — surrounded by old apple trees with sunlight streaming through and two dogs playfully running around us. Still, we focused on tasting the 2023 vintage. Unlike 2024, 2023 was nearly perfect — harmonious, dry, and with ideal ripeness. And it’s evident in the wines.

Tasting Notes

Alsheim Chardonnay, 2023

The nose reveals delicate light fruit, white flowers, and a hint of citrus.

On the palate, it’s cool and harmonious with subtle lactic notes and a gentle yeast tone. The oak is discreetly integrated, giving the wine an elegant freshness.

The finish is soft yet balanced, with refreshing lightness.

Oppenheim Riesling Aus Ersten Lagen, 2023

The nose is charming and opulent, with pronounced yellow fruit and floral aromas.

On the palate, a fruity interplay of sweetness and acidity comes across as creamy and soft.

It lacks some concentration but remains a crowd-pleaser, with a flowing character and enticing lightness in the finish.

Alsheim Riesling Wurzelecht Aus Ersten Lagen, 2023

The nose shows bright fruit with white peach, white flowers, and a hint of white pepper.

On the palate, it’s cool and precise, supported by racy acidity and citrus notes. The compact body has a fine texture, and the finish impresses with its salty-citrus minerality.

This one’s a personal favorite!

Nierstein Riesling Aus Ersten Lagen, 2023

Spicy red aromas with citrus notes on the nose.

The palate is vibrant and mineral, with a taut, lean structure. The lively acidity carries the wine through to a salty, astringent finish.

A fresh, compact wine with an inviting elegance.

Ölberg Riesling GG, 2023

The nose features yellow fruit, spicy red notes, and intense minerality.

On the palate, it’s oily and dense, with strong extract and salty, citrus freshness.

Elegant and vibrant, with a taut structure and a long, salty finish.

Pettenthal Riesling GG, 2023

Extremely concentrated and spicy on the nose, with fine yellow fruit.

On the palate, it’s salty and mineral, taut with lively acidity. The elegant, compact body shows plenty of spice and drive.

The finish is spicy and astringent with impressive length.

An excellent GG with great potential and remarkable drinkability.

A Quiet Revolution with a Big Impact: The New Class of Rappenhof

The wines radiate a unique elegance paired with an unmistakable signature that captivates me each time. It’s a subtle shift that many in the industry haven’t yet noticed, which I personally find hard to understand. It’s remarkable how precise and complex Rappenhof’s wines have become in the last two years. What’s emerging here is nothing less than the work of a winemaker who not only masters her craft but also uncompromisingly pursues her vision.

The 2023 wines certainly deserve more attention. In my view, this is a vintage with the potential to put the Rappenhof winery on a broader map. Early recognitions, like the nomination for “Newcomer of the Year” by Vinum and the high ratings for the 2023 Rieslings on wein.plus, are important steps but only scratch the surface of what Elisabeth and her wines truly offer.

What fascinates me most is the tension in the wines and the balance between freshness, depth, and finesse. You can feel the influence of the outstanding Alsheim terroirs and Elisabeth’s tireless pursuit of perfection. Rappenhof has long been more than just an insider tip. This vintage proves it: something great is happening here.

Rappenhof 2.0: Moving Forward with Fresh Energy and a Clear Vision

As we tasted the wines, we talked about the winery’s future. Elisabeth and Johannes have big plans. They want to not only further develop the wines but also prepare the winery for the next generations. With Johannes now deeply involved in vineyard management, fresh energy has infused Rappenhof’s rich history. With over 400 years of family heritage behind them and their eyes firmly set on the future, they’re embarking on a new chapter.

“It’s not easy to juggle everything — the kids, the dogs, the winery, and the renovations on the family house,” Elisabeth told me. “But somehow, we manage.” They’re forging new paths, and I’m excited to see where their journey will take them.

One thing is certain: The Rappenhof winery is in an exciting phase of transformation. With a blend of tradition, innovation, and a steadfast resolve to withstand nature’s whims, Elisabeth and her family are leading the winery into a promising future.

Pictures: © The Art of Riesling – Maximilian Kaindl