It doesn’t happen often, but every now and then, three wines hit the mark so precisely that they stay with me for days. In April, these three bottles—different as they may be—did exactly that: energy, depth, soul. And they had all of it in abundance. What a month!
Max Kaindl, May 05, 2025
Reading time about 4 minutes
Collector’s Gem –
My Latest Discoveries
Hors-Série 2020 – Champagne Chartogne-Taillet
What a characterful fizz! This Blanc de Blancs doesn’t come crashing into your glass—it builds, slowly, deliberately, gaining depth with every second. The nose is cool, clean, and complex: delicate citrus notes, a hint of lime zest, green apple, gently toasted hazelnuts, and that signature smoky-chalky depth that brings to mind wet chalk. In the background, a whisper of sage and fennel fronds—almost meditative. On the palate, it’s bone dry, structured, and gripping, with a salty minerality that grabs hold. The fine mousse pulses beneath the surface while brioche, quince, and citrus zest flicker through. The acidity? Spot on—tense and refreshing without being aggressive. And the finish? Precise as a scalpel, with a long, saline aftertaste and a subtle herbal lift. A Champagne with depth, presence, and a clear message: origin over makeup.
Backstory: Alexandre Chartogne isn’t just a student of Anselme Selosse—he’s his true heir. In Merfy, he crafts biodynamic Champagnes that challenge rather than charm. Hors-Série is his boldest statement yet. Like Selosse, Chartogne doesn’t chase technical perfection, but signature and sense of place. The vineyard is his compass—and you can taste it: a Champagne with edges, tension, and soul. No crowd-pleaser—this is a thinker in a glass.
Silvaner Grauer Stein 2022 – Carsten Saalwächter
Silvaner on speed. And carved in stone. From the first sniff, your mind kicks into gear: flinty reduction, wet gravel, smoky spice. Then flashes of Amalfi lemon, yellow peach, and a hint of green pear, laced with delicate herbal notes—a touch of chervil and lemon thyme. With air, the fruit opens up, but never overwhelms. On the palate? Jaw-dropping. This isn’t a friendly Silvaner—it’s a force of nature. Crystalline and slender, yet driven by massive inner tension. The minerality feels etched, the texture silky and fine-grained. A salty line runs from start to finish, carried by an acidity that vibrates rather than dominates. It’s austere, but never thin. It has substance, tension, and length. And the finish? Salt-preserved lemon, chalk, lemon peel. Minutes long. A wine to meditate on—or simply enjoy for days.
Backstory: Carsten Saalwächter has achieved in just a few years what others spend a lifetime chasing: he’s a recognized terroir whisperer. Trained by the best—from Ziereisen to Domaine des Lambrays—he merges Burgundian thinking with Rheinhessen limestone. Grauer Stein comes from a tiny plot of nearly 50-year-old vines rooted in pure limestone. Aged in used oak, this wine has depth without disguise. It’s no longer an insider secret—it’s a benchmark.
Grand Vin de Château Latour 1978 – Château Latour
Not mighty—but utterly magnificent. Poured blind, no idea what to expect. The nose: subtle, layered, like an old notebook full of stories. Dried plums, cigar box, forest floor, damp leaves, a hint of truffle. Then a whisper of black tea and mint, barely there. On the palate? Absolute silence—in the best possible way. Everything is soft, silky, seamlessly fused. No tannins left, just texture. The fruit has faded into the background, the spice remains. This is wine in its third life—not powerful, but radiant. The finish? Earthy depth, gentle, lingering, almost ethereal. A quiet giant. Not a wine that tries to impress. But one that takes you with it—and won’t let go. A heartfelt thank-you to Nedjelko (Neno) Mrcela from Geisenheim-based fine wine merchant WeinArt for sharing this treasure.
Backstory: Château Latour is top-tier. Full stop. Premier Grand Cru Classé since 1855, iconic Cabernet-forward style, absolute quality obsession. The terroir? Close to the river, deep and gravel-rich. Some vines are over a hundred years old. The team? 70 professionals who tend each vine like a bonsai. No other Premier Cru is this consistent, this uncompromising. No surprise they’ve exited the en primeur circus—they only release when it’s ready. And when it’s ready, it’s often nothing short of legendary.
Pictures: © The Art of Riesling – Maximilian Kaindl
