Sulzfeld, a village straight out of a storybook. Cobblestone streets, half-timbered houses, and Muschelkalk limestone underfoot – right in the middle of it all, the Zehnthof. A place steeped in history, now home to wines that are writing their own chapters. Philipp Luckert invited me over to get a taste of that history. Or rather: to drink through it. Not aimlessly, but with a clear focus. Maustal Silvaner – from 2024 all the way back to 2015. A journey through hot and cool years, through youth and maturity, through a style that’s as precise as it is unmistakable.
Max Kaindl, August 4, 2025
Reading time about 5 minutes
Zehnthof Luckert –
Silvaner as a Statement
The Zehnthof – Family Estate with a Mind of Its Own
Ulrich, Wolfgang, and Philipp Luckert run the Zehnthof the way it’s meant to be run – as an antidote to the noisy world of wine marketing. No flashy barrique spectacles, no clumsy trends – just honest, uncompromising, organic viticulture. What matters here are healthy soils, vibrant vines, and a deep commitment to showcasing Silvaner at its finest. The wines are raised in traditional Stückfass barrels, spontaneously fermented, left on full lees, with malolactic fermentation. Sounds old school? It is – and that’s exactly why it works. If you still think Silvaner is just a wine for asparagus season, this is the place to have your mind changed.
What Luckert Does, No One Else Does
Many say Luckert is the best Silvaner producer in Germany. I’d go further: Luckert is Silvaner. No other estate has managed to tie itself so closely to this grape – and give it such a unique, recognizable voice. Luckert stripped Silvaner down to its essence. No fruit bombs, no pomp. Just clarity, juice, structure, and that signature Luckert creaminess. Lightness with tension, precision with soul. These wines are like a perfectly tuned chord – nothing too much, nothing missing. Once you’ve tasted them, you’ll know them. Blind. Always. Because no one else makes wine like Zehnthof.
My tasting notes –
2024 village wines & 1G
Silvaner, 2024
The entry point – but no pushover. Cool, clear, with a gentle spice. Juicy fruit, almost weightless, yet grounded. So simple, so good.
Sulzfelder Silvaner, 2024
Delicate, precise, charming. Subtle yellow fruit, mineral backbone, classic limestone character. Has energy, has class.
Roter Silvaner, 2024
Floral opening, then cool and spicy. Delicate tannins, fine phenolics, slightly drying but with real grip and structure. Long finish? Absolutely. Very distinctive, very intriguing.
Blauer Silvaner, 2024
Lightly creamy with herbal, green undertones. Tightly built, juicy, mineral – pulls across the palate and lingers. Quiet, yet present.
Gelber Silvaner Alte Reben, 2024
Clear and precise. Slight reduction, bright fruit, fine texture. More depth, more texture, long and firm. A real statement.
Sulzfelder Berg Silvaner Gelbkalk 1G, 2023
Now it’s getting serious: ripe yellow fruit, vibrant acidity, noticeable grip. Powerful, but focused. Long, salty finish – demanding, but rewarding.
My tasting notes –
Maustal GG 2023-2015
Maustal Silvaner GG, 2023
Now we’re in the deep end: immense density, salty depth, dancing freshness. Subtle yellow fruit, fine tannins, a hint of smoke. Long finish, elegant persistence. Top class.
Maustal Silvaner GG, 2019
Ripe, juicy, complex. Fennel, yellow fruit, fine spice. Loads of juice, loads of energy. Long, focused finish – Silvaner at full strength.
Maustal Silvaner GG, 2016
Cool, almost shy. Bell-clear, filigree, lightly creamy. A quiet wine that opens up the longer you hold it. Dancing, silky, perfectly balanced. My personal favorite.
Maustal Silvaner GG, 2015
More spice, more maturity. Juicy, structured, ripe yellow fruit. Compact, slightly alcoholic, but still grippy and present. Leaves an impression.
So What’s the Takeaway?
These wines show what Silvaner can be – and what it wants to be, if you let it. Luckert doesn’t make wines for showrooms – these are wines to think about. And to drink, of course. For those who dive in, this is Silvaner at a world-class level. Most importantly, it’s a style that can’t be imitated. Just as Egon Müller stands for nobly sweet Riesling, and Klaus Peter Keller for dry Riesling – Luckert stands for the purest expression of Silvaner.
I tip my hat to that. And order the next bottle.
Pictures: © The Art of Riesling – Maximilian Kaindl
