Vintage 2024: No Year for Hesitators

2024 was one of those years you don’t forget – even if you’d like to. A head start thanks to a mild winter, a frost shock in April, relentless pressure from humidity in summer, and then a grey, rain-soaked autumn instead of golden days. In short: a year of extremes. Especially for organic growers, it was a grind. Up to 15 sprayings? Sounds like plant protection on overdrive – and that’s exactly what it was. Anyone not working with precision, foresight and rigor didn’t bring clear Rieslings into the cellar, but shapeless liquids with an origin of “somewhere – but who cares.”

And yet: those who knew what they were doing delivered.

2024 Whites – Between Acidity and the Winemaker’s Touch

At the Fair, one thing became clear: 2024 isn’t a loud, charming showman like 2023. It’s a quiet strategist with staying power. Driven by acidity, but fine – far more precise than the often under-ripe 2021. It’s a vintage that sorts things out. It separates the wheat from the chaff. Those who selected rigorously, showed patience, and took risks, bottled wines of clarity, tension and depth. Those who didn’t? Delivered forgettable mediocrity. My tip: Some winemakers struck gold in the off-dry and fruity-sweet categories. That’s where 2024 really plays to its strengths.

2023 Reds – Power with Edge

Just a few tables over: the 2023 red wine vintage. And yes, even though media attention focused mostly on 2022, there was plenty of good juice in the glass. Often warmer, less juicy and balanced than ‘22, but with grip and density. I tasted excellent Spätburgunders from the Pfalz, Franconia, the Ahr and Baden that surprised me with their balance and structure. Not a show-off vintage – but definitely one that can yield serious, polished reds.

The Mood? More Relaxed Than Expected.

Despite price pressure, inflation, a dip in consumption and Trump’s looming tariff drama, the vibe in Mainz was remarkably relaxed. No shoulder shrugging – more like back-patting. No complaining – but real conversation. Maybe because people know where things stand, and still choose to look forward. Maybe because, in moments like these, you remember the values that define the VDP: origin, craftsmanship, and conviction. I liked the mood. Because forward thinking is the only kind that leads to lasting success.

VINVIN Sizzles, the Wine Exchange Stays Cool

What really stood out to me this year? The spirit at VINVIN – the tasting event for up-and-coming growers from Rheinhessen, the Pfalz, Nahe and Ahr, held the Saturday before the main Wine Exchange. It was electric. Young, loud, clear in its message. Mainz has the potential to become Germany’s answer to the Printemps des Champagnes – but we need to stop planning all these great events in isolation.
Sektbörse, Wine Fair, biodynamics fair, VINVIN – all strong formats, but they desperately need better coordination. Anyone who’s experienced Printemps des Champagnes in Reims or Épernay knows how it’s done: taste by day, celebrate by night. Properly celebrate. Not tired. Not subdued. But with DJs, live energy, and momentum.

The Mainz Wine Fair, by contrast? Important, professional, but atmospherically lacking. The Rheingoldhalle is functional – and that’s about it. Where VINVIN was buzzing with passion, the Wine Exchange often felt like a duty. That doesn’t do the format justice.

Economics? Clear Strategy in Turbulent Times

Sales across VDP wineries – and the entire wine sector – are down: 10% fewer bottles than last year. But: revenue has remained fairly stable, down just 3%. That shows VDP producers are sticking to their price strategies. Direct-to-consumer remains the backbone. Online is growing. Retail and gastronomy are holding up but under pressure. Export? Mixed. 42% of estates saw drops, but 28% gained ground – especially in Scandinavia, the US and Eastern Europe. The VDP eagle still holds clout. And: 2024 brought the smallest harvest volume since 2010 – which means many wines, especially from top sites, will be scarce.

My Takeaway?

2024 is a winemaker’s vintage. No blockbuster, but a year full of character, edges, tension – and real potential for those who work cleanly, precisely and with a clear stylistic vision. Many good wines, some very good ones, a few truly great bottles. But no mass-market wines. And that’s exactly what makes it exciting. Buying advice? Choose wisely. The GGs and standout wines should still be available this fall, despite the small quantities.

The Mainz Wine Fair? Still essential. But I’m hoping for more courage, more atmosphere, more emotion. Mainz could be Germany’s Reims – we just need to mean it this time. VINVIN showed what’s possible. Now it’s VDP’s move. Because bringing together the country’s most important and exciting winemakers over several consecutive days in one place? That’s brilliant. But only if all organizers actually coordinate, talk to each other, and think collectively. Only then can Mainz become the capital of German wine.

In Reims, they shut down entire streets at night so people can party. Winemakers bring magnums. People taste, dance, laugh – together. Why can’t we do the same in Mainz? German wine deserves not just to be tasted – but to be celebrated. Really celebrated.