Rheingau

6 Pinot Noir. 2023 unless otherwise stated

Rheingau, oh Rheingau. Unlike with the Rieslings—where I had plenty to report—the Pinots gave me far fewer reasons to write, so I’ll jump straight to the next region: Franconia.

Rheinhessen

6 Pinot Noirs. all from 2023

VDP Rheinhessen is currently focusing its GGs on Riesling and Pinot Noir—and rightly so. As far as its 19 members have pushed dry Riesling into the top tier, there’s still some road ahead for Pinot Noir. Sticking to just these two GG varieties (for now) suits the regional association well.

Gutzler remains the leading estate for Rheinhessen Pinot in my book. Both Morstein and Höllenbrand are precise and finely sculpted, with Gutzler’s typical fleshy, slightly sanguine note. This year I put Höllenbrand ahead of Morstein: the tannin is finer, the wine is more complex, deeper, firmer, and longer.

After the misfire with the 2022 Heerkretz Pinot, Daniel Wagner’s 2023 marks an impressive U-turn: less lactic, much more freshness, precision, and finesse. Though the warmth of the vintage shows, it’s lively, with fine tannins, bright acidity, and excellent tension. High-level drinkability.

Palatinate

26 Pinot Noir. 2023 unless otherwise stated

Once again, the Pfalz showed very well overall for Pinot Noir. Relative to such a complicated vintage, I found a number of genuinely pleasing wines here.

The best collection by far came from Rings. Both Felsenberg and Saumagen fully convinced in 2023. Considering the warm, cooked-fruit tendencies of the vintage, they felt almost out of time—in a good way: dark, juicy, fleshy, with tremendous precision, freshness, and finesse on the palate; bell-clear fruit, ultra-fine tannin, and a dancing finish. Impressive what the Rings brothers bottle—even in tough years.

A step behind came Christmann. You can feel the shift toward more finesse and delicacy in recent years, which I generally like, but in 2023 the wines struck me as almost a bit too thin and delicate—odd as that sounds given the vintage. That was my take especially on Idig and Vogelsang. The debut of the new Schild GG, however, is a success: good substance, fine tannin, clear pale-red fruit, and very good balance. The vines are still very young, so I won’t speculate about aging potential—when in doubt, drink on the younger side.

Kuhn’s Kirschgarten surprised with intense red-cherry fruit, a very fine, well-structured texture, and a juicy finish. Excellent. Jülg’s Sonnenberg KT also convinced, albeit below its usual strong level—likely a vintage effect—as I found some core warmth here, though it felt denser, more complex, and firmer than Sonnenberg KB.

A must-mention among the reds: Weingut Kranz. Quality has been climbing almost exponentially over the last two years, and the 2023 Kalmit Pinot continues the trend. More fruit-driven, but immensely juicy and gluggable—a vin de soif with serious intent. Very well done.

Among the mature Pinots, Rebholz’s 2020 Im Sonnenschein was clearly ahead: slightly alcoholic on the nose at first, then firmer with air, lots of cassis and some woodland notes. On the palate soft tannins, well-integrated acidity, and gently mature red fruit. Overall very well balanced with good length and depth. Not my personal style, but unquestionably noteworthy in quality.

Baden

24 Pinot Noir. 2023 unless otherwise stated

This one’s easy to sum up: as so often, Huber delivered an impressive collection. Once again a powerhouse performance from a very difficult vintage—worthy of a blind buy, if the budget allows.

Another wine etched in my memory is Keller’s Steinriese. Deep and bell-clear—this is not a casual sipper. The nose packs extremely concentrated cherry; on the palate it’s so pure, refined, and elegant you almost hold your breath. Polished tannins, racy acidity, gorgeous poise, earthy spice, and an endlessly long, juicy, elevated finish. Great. Schlossberg from Keller trailed only by a hair. Both are absolute highlights.

I also want to note the marked quality rise at Weingut Seeger. With Herrenberg Pinot, the estate has produced a well-structured, juicy wine with a faintly sweet-pastry note, very well balanced and bright-red fruited. With Anna Seeger’s arrival, it’ll be exciting to see where the estate goes.

Heger’s Pinots convinced across the board. As with the whites, the stylistic shift is clearly noticeable now: the Pinots feel finer and more playful, with oak used more judiciously than in prior years and noticeably more juiciness. The vintage’s warmth and concentration are there, but well harnessed. I’m curious to see where Heger heads next.

Schlumberger-Bernhart’s Altenberg Weingarten also played in the region’s top league: denser and finer than the nose first suggests, with gentle gloss, lively acidity, red-cherry fruit, and a cool, inviting juiciness. Excellent. Overall, the estate showed a strong collection in Wiesbaden—reds and whites alike.

Baden presented itself as the best region for Pinot Noir in both breadth and peak quality. The region now knows exactly how to make serious Pinot.

Württemberg

11 Pinot Noir. 2023 unless otherwise stated

I’ll be candid: Württemberg struggled with me again this year. Despite some solid wines, the region as a whole didn’t grab me—neither for whites nor Pinots. There were fewer bright spots in 2023 than in 2022. Only two Pinots really convinced.

Schnaitmann’s Lämmler is a powerhouse: cassis-driven with a good dose of spice, bright, clear fruit on the palate, good length, lively acidity, and fairly firm tannins. Still a touch rugged on the finish, but built for the long haul.

Dautel’s Schupen is also successful: spicy, very present and intense, yet balanced and long—more old-school German classicism, but convincing in quality.

That’s really all I need to say about Württemberg. Sometimes brevity is the soul of wit—and that fits the region perfectly this year.

Most of the Silvaners were 2024s—all from Franconia. The vintage showed as very filigreed, elegant, and delicate, with lively, just-ripe acidity and lots of pale tones. A lovely mix of fresh fruit, gripping acidity, and a cool, slender core that brought finesse and freshness. I spent a lot of time in Franconia in early July; I was already impressed by the current collections, and Wiesbaden confirmed those impressions.

My first goosebump moment came with Luckert’s 2024 Maustal: very delicate, crystalline, and reticent on the nose, with white pepper and herbal notes; on the palate wonderfully elegant, bell-clear, and beautifully balanced. Impressive finesse, practically dancing into the finish. Max Müller I also impressed with the 2024 Ratsherr: a bit spicier and greener than Maustal, but equally deep with lots of substance.

Paul Weltner’s 2024 Julius-Echter-Berg was another highlight: a cool, herb-driven nose; then brilliant on the palate with racy acidity, a firm core, and a long, salty-spicy finish. Everything in lovely balance. If you like low-fruit styles, you’ll love it.

May scored with the 2024 Rothlauf: red-fruited, spicy nose recalling red berries; on the palate firm, salty, and concentrated, with almost chewable structure and perfect balance. The long, energetic finish made it a true highlight. I was surprised, though, that Himmelspfad didn’t play in the same league as Rothlauf this year.

Among the 2023s, Wirsching’s Julius-Echter-Berg led the way: its signature green-spicy aroma (it always reminds me of Haribo green apple rings), juicy yet ripe acidity on the palate, fine gloss, and a salty-spicy finish. Dense, juicy, and well structured.

Bottom line on Silvaner? The 2024s were often crystalline and fine-boned, with lively acidity. Those who nailed the tightrope walk—racy yet ripe acidity with balanced, crystalline fruit—bottled delicate, bell-clear Silvaners. For me, it remains an underrated variety. In Franconia it gets the respect it deserves, but beyond the region—and certainly on international lists—it still flies under the radar. Like Furmint in Austria and Hungary, Silvaner deserves far more attention: it offers both high quality and serious drinking pleasure—and that shouldn’t be overlooked.

Since Chardonnay is only approved as a GG in Baden, the Wiesbaden line-up was manageable. Huber—almost a given—delivered again, though not nearly at the level the press gushes about, in my view. Bienenberg and Schlossberg stood out: reductive notes and palpable but well-integrated oak give structure and depth. On the palate: drive, tension, and marked spice. I’d have wished for a bit more length and intensity.

Bienenberg felt more accessible in youth; Schlossberg is still quite firm and closed. That said, I see greater long-term potential in Schlossberg—given you appreciate reduction.

As for surprises: Seeger’s Chardonnay Herrenberg Lange Wingert deserves mention—a bright, cool-toned Chardonnay marked by fine citrus and gentle gloss. Juicy, salty, with real drive and length. A clear stylistic shift is underway at Seeger—very welcome. Dr. Heger’s Winterberg Hinter Winklen also impressed again: freshness, salt, fine oak, and exactly the tension and depth I expect from a GG. A very successful, genuinely enjoyable wine.

I’m also following Schlumberger-Bernhart’s Altenberg Weingarten with pleasure: the 2023 delivered again. Clearly oak-marked and not for everyone, but its stony density, salty structure, and excellent balance and length make it a treat for oak fans.

As for the rest, I’ll stick with the old saying: silence is golden.

Pinot Blanc and I have not been a love story—at least not at GG level. I tend to associate the variety with accessible, uncomplicated, fun wines. But Wiesbaden once again showed that Pinot Blanc can be a serious GG category. My cross-regional highlights:

Kranz’s 2024 Kalmit (Südpfalz) convinced with a clearly new-oak-inflected nose, which the palate counterbalances beautifully with refreshing acidity and a play of salinity and fine stone fruit. No lightweight, but a fantastically executed Pinot Blanc with aging potential—my qualitative pinnacle for the variety this year in Wiesbaden.

Theo Minges’ 2024 Rosenkranz im Untern Kreuz completely surprised me: dense, spicy, hardly any fruit, even a hint of salt on the nose. On the palate very firm, pale-toned, with grippy tannin, lively acidity, and a salty finish. It needs time but should develop well. Rebholz’s Im Sonnenschein also shone: clear, stony fruit, expressive minerality, lots of herbs, and a surprisingly juicy, salty palate that finishes fresh and balanced.

A quick detour to Baden: have I mentioned the positive evolution at Dr. Heger? Since 2022 the wines are finer, more precise, and less oak-driven. I really like Rebecca Heger’s direction. Her Pinot Blanc Winklerberg Hinter Winklen shows a nose of pale blossoms and white flesh fruit, with herbs and, later, a whisper of very fine oak. On the palate: depth, length, and structure. Overall, a calmer, more reticent Pinot Blanc.

Two highlights (Schnaitmann and Heger Schlossberg); otherwise average to “not necessary.” Personally, I don’t need this variety at GG level—the list of notable highs was thin.

Schnaitmann’s 2023 Lämmler set the benchmark this year: very fine, densely woven nose of fresh white stone fruit, citrus, and a hint of spice. The palate continues the theme: pale-toned and fine, with a firm, salty core, plenty of drive and tension, and a juicy, saline finish.

Dr. Heger’s 2023 Schlossberg shows a citrusy, lightly bready, pear-leaning nose; on the palate precise, with fine tannin, bright fruit, charming acidity, and good overall balance and length.

And then there’s Schlumberger-Bernhart’s 2023 Altenberg Weingarten: slightly sharp on the nose, tea-like with plenty of grapefruit; on the palate it comes together: a touch of oak, good length and density, fresh and gripping with a solid finish.

What remains after the Pinot Gris flights? My verdict from last year stands: yes, there are isolated convincing Pinot Gris from Baden that can play at the intended GG level. But the overwhelming majority of submitted wines lack structure, complexity, length, and precision. For me, this variety should not carry GG status right now—the current field doesn’t do the VDP’s top dry-wine seal any favors.