Rheingau and Saxony / Saale-Unstrut

9 Pinot Noir. 2022 unless otherwise stated

Why am I discussing both regions together? It’s simple: combined, they only produced 9 Grosse Gewächse (GGs). And to be honest, there wasn’t much truly noteworthy to report from either area. I’ve already outlined my thoughts on the GG standard in the Rheingau in detail in Part 1 – and unfortunately, this applies almost identically to the Pinot Noirs from the region.

Nevertheless, I’d like to highlight two wines. First, August Kesseler’s Höllenberg. Admittedly, the wine feels stylistically a bit rich and “old-fashioned,” but it still delivers the necessary depth, tension, and balance that a GG demands. Complexity and a pleasant juiciness in the finish round it out nicely – I really enjoyed it. Excellent.

Then there’s the debut of the Edelacker by Böhme Töchter from Saale-Unstrut. The nose opens with a slightly medicinal and brandy-like note, followed by clear, fine red fruit – meaty and lively. On the palate, there’s that same medicinal note, accompanied by juicy red fruit, lively acidity, and fine tannins that hold everything together beautifully. The finish is juicy and practically invites you to keep drinking. Excellent. A remarkably successful first release that makes me eager to see more.

Rheinhessen

8 Pinot Noir. all from 2022

Rheinhessen is (still) not exactly a mecca for grand cru Pinot Noir, but the region has made significant qualitative strides in recent years. The 2022 vintage continued this positive trend: the wines are juicy, wonderfully balanced, and already a delight to drink in their youth. A true pleasure in the glass!

Looking back, I have to admit: when I sampled a Pinot Noir from Rheinhessen a few years ago, I often felt that the wines seemed somewhat aged – with muted fruit, grainy tannins, and that “old German” style that came across as rather flat. But since the 2019 and 2020 vintages, I’ve noticed a clear shift. There’s more freshness, more juiciness, finer tannins, and a more refined texture – overall, a significantly more modern and exciting approach to Pinot Noir.

Of course, Rheinhessen has (still) not quite reached the pinnacle of German Pinot Noir, but the wines are on a very promising path. If this development continues – and all signs point to that – Rheinhessen could set entirely new benchmarks in the coming years. I’m certainly curious to see where this journey leads. It remains exciting!

My highlights:

Pares by J. Neus: Clear, almost black cherry notes, earthy and meaty. On the palate, juicy and fresh with fine tannins, lively acidity, and a charming, inviting finish. Excellent.

Morstein by Gutzler: Precise red fruit with a medicinal hint and cedarwood. Clear and pure on the palate, with polished tannins, good acidity, and a juicy, fleshy finish. Excellent.

Heerkretz by Wagner-Stempel: Intense grape juice and cherry aromas with a slight lactic touch. On the palate, juicy red cherry, the finest tannins, lively acidity, and an inviting finish. Excellent.

Palatinate

23 Pinot Noir. 2022 unless otherwise stated

The Pfalz region revealed a particularly charming side to me in 2022. Especially with the Spätburgunders, I discovered an impressive density of truly accomplished wines. The standout collection for me clearly came from Christmann. While I somehow struggled to connect with the Rieslings this year, the two Pinots from Idig (great) and Vogelsang (excellent) completely won me over. Compared to the rest of the Pfalz, they — much like the Rieslings — lean toward elegance, finesse, and a graceful lightness. Yet at the same time, they offer more density, juiciness, and balance. This combination truly resonated with me.

However, it would be unfair to mention only Christmann. Rings also delivered an impressive collection of Pinots. And yes, here too, the Spätburgunders appealed to me more than the Rieslings. Knipser also completely won me over this year — for the first time, really. The wines seemed finer, brighter, and juicier than in previous years.
In the southern Pfalz, Becker and Jülg once again delivered reliably, as expected. Both, however, with a completely different style compared to the wineries in Mittelhaardt: earthier, meatier, denser, and more influenced by oak. These are muscular Pinots, but without tipping into opulence.

And then there was Rebholz with his “Im Sonnenschein.” This wine pleasantly surprised me this year. In the past, I often found it too oaky, with a dried-out fruit that lacked the necessary freshness for my taste. But the 2019 vintage was different: beautifully balanced in a way I hadn’t experienced before. Excellent. A truly lovely wine.

Baden

24 Pinot Noir. 2022 unless otherwise stated

Here’s the bottom line, straight to the point: Huber, as so often, has delivered an impressive collection. Once again, a powerhouse performance that practically begs for a blind purchase—assuming your wallet can handle it. The only wine that didn’t fully convince me was the Alte Burg. It came across as a bit rough and drying, not quite as harmonious as the rest. But hey, if that’s the only “criticism,” we’re looking at a truly outstanding lineup of wines. I’m particularly happy for Julian Huber that in 2022, he was finally able to produce a decent quantity of wine after struggling with meager yields in recent years. It’s good to know that not only the quality but also the quantity is back on track.

Another wine that has etched itself into my memory is Keller’s Steinriese. Deep and crystal-clear—this is not a wine you casually sip on the side. On the nose, there’s this intensely concentrated cherry, and on the palate, it’s so pure, so refined and elegant that you almost hold your breath. Polished tannins, zesty acidity, a wonderful elegance, with this earthy spiciness that lingers endlessly in the finish—juicy, majestic, simply magnificent. Excellent. Keller’s Eichberg came just behind for me. A bit more substantial, but not quite as deep and concentrated as the Steinriese. Excellent. Both wines, however, are absolute highlights.

Heger’s Spätburgunder impressed me across the board in terms of quality—no question. But on a personal level, they just didn’t move me this time. I struggle with this more “old-school German” style, which undoubtedly has its fans, but it simply doesn’t resonate with me. Of course, this doesn’t detract from the winery’s high quality—that’s beyond doubt. But in the end, wine is always about emotions, and this time, Heger didn’t fully strike a chord with me.

Württemberg

11 Pinot Noir. 2022 unless otherwise stated

Württemberg had a tough time with me this year—I’ll admit it. Despite some truly high-quality wines, the region as a whole just didn’t win me over, whether in the white wines or the Spätburgunders. Sure, the quality was there, but the spark simply didn’t ignite. That being said, there were a few standouts that I absolutely have to mention. In the Spätburgunder category, two wines left a lasting impression on me. Both came from Aldinger, who, in my opinion, presented the best collection from the region, along with Beurer’s Mönchberg Öde Halde—a real stunner.

Aldinger’s Gips Marienglas? Fresh strawberries, cedarwood, elegant and playful. On the palate, it’s cool, juicy, with lively acidity and polished tannins—just pure fun in the glass. Excellent.

The Lämmer Kaiser? A bit more robust, with more intense fruit, greater drive, firm and vibrant. Both wines won me over completely. Excellent.

As for Beurer’s Mönchberg Öde Halde? Juicy cherries, fresh and clean, cedarwood and chocolate. On the palate, full of tension, with great acidity and an inviting finish. It’s the kind of wine that makes you immediately want another glass. Excellent.

I really don’t have much more to say about Württemberg. Sometimes less is more—and that sums up the region perfectly for me this year.

Back to the 2023 vintage: The Silvaner wines from Franconia were incredibly accessible this year. A delightful combination of fresh fruit, charming acidity, and a solid core that provided excellent drive and a beautiful drinking flow. Most of the Silvaner wines were from 2023, though there were also a few from 2022 and even one from 2019.

As a warm-up to the VDP pre-premiere in Wiesbaden, I spent Friday in Franconia, visiting the Castell and May wineries. I was already impressed by the outstanding quality of their current collections, and these impressions were further confirmed in Wiesbaden. Particularly intriguing at Castell: Since last year, the winery has been releasing its Schlossberg GG only five years after harvest. This time, we got to taste the 2019 vintage. As I had already noted during my visit, the wine presented itself as fresh with initial signs of maturity, wonderfully dense, gripping, and slightly spicy, with an intense, juicy finish. Excellent. A great introduction to the world of Silvaner!

May impressed with the 2023 Rothlauf: A nose of red fruits and spices, firm on the palate, salty and concentrated, with an almost chewable texture and perfect balance. The long, vibrant finish made it a true standout. Excellent.

My first goosebump moment came with Luckert’s 2023 Maustal. Initially a bit restrained on the nose, with hints of white pepper and herbs, but on the palate wonderfully elegant, deep, and harmonious. The wine showed impressive finesse and practically danced through the finish. Great. Max Müller I also convinced me with the 2023 Ratsherr. Slightly spicier and riper than the Maustal, but equally deep with plenty of substance.

Among the 2022s, I particularly liked the Stettener Stein from Weingut am Stein and Bickel Stumpf’s Mönchshof. Both were excellent. The Stein displayed spicy and green notes with a salty finish, while the Mönchshof had red fruit, a slight warmth, and a peppery finish. Both were dense and well-structured.

So, what is there left to say about Silvaner? For me, it remains one of the most underrated grape varieties. While its tremendous potential has long been recognized and appreciated in Franconia, it often flies under the radar beyond the region’s borders, let alone on international wine lists. Much like Furmint from Austria and Hungary, Silvaner deserves far more attention. After all, it not only offers outstanding quality but also delivers immense drinking pleasure – something that should simply not be overlooked.

Since Chardonnay is only permitted as a “Grosses Gewächs” (GG) in Baden, the selection in Wiesbaden was relatively limited. However, Huber — almost a given at this point — delivered once again. His Chardonnays from the Bienenberg and Schlossberg vineyards (both excellent) clearly stood out. Both wines are characterized by reductive notes and a noticeable yet well-integrated use of oak, which imparts structure and depth. On the palate, they exhibit drive, tension, and a distinctive spiciness. The Bienenberg, in particular, seemed a bit more approachable in its youth, while the Schlossberg still comes across as quite firm and closed. But this is precisely where I see the greater aging potential — this wine has the attributes to develop into something truly remarkable over the coming years.

And the rest? Well, to be honest, there was a noticeable gap between Huber and the others, in my opinion. However, I do want to highlight one exception: Schlumberger-Bernhart’s Altenberg Weingarten was a pleasant surprise. Especially considering the price of around 30 euros, this is a real insider tip. Freshness, delicate oak, and exactly the kind of tension and depth I expect from a GG. A very successful wine that is genuinely enjoyable. Excellent.

As for the rest, I’ll stick to the old saying this time: “Silence is golden.”

Pinot Blanc and I haven’t exactly had a love affair up until now—at least not when it came to Grosses Gewächs wines. I’ve always associated the grape with approachable, uncomplicated wines that are simply enjoyable. But my experience in Wiesbaden changed that, showing me that Pinot Blanc can indeed belong in the serious GG category. Here are my standout highlights from across the regions:

The 2023 Edelacker from Weingut Pawis in Saale-Unstrut surprised me with its green spice, fine elegance, and juicy peach character. On the palate, it was quiet and deep, elegant, with bright fruit, spice, and a touch of salinity in the finish. Only a faint hint of candy-like sweetness at the end detracted slightly. Excellent.

The Kirschgarten vineyard in the Pfalz revealed itself as a true mecca for Pinot Blanc. Knipser presented a spicier, still somewhat closed version with subtle oak, while Kuhn (2022) went for more intense yellow fruit and bolder oak aromas. Both GGs had their appeal. Both excellent.

However, my real highlights came from the Southern Pfalz: Rebholz, Siegrist, Jülg, and Kranz delivered across the board. The Mandelberg from Rebholz was smoky, reductive, and marked by taut acidity. Excellent. The Sonnenberg from Jülg was rich, yeasty, and powerful—a true powerhouse (excellent), while Kranz, with his Kalmit, showcased Pinot Blanc’s elegant, dancing side. Mineral-driven, bright-fruited, and with fine structure. Excellent.

To round things off, a brief detour to Baden: Heger’s 2022 Winklerberg Hinter Winkeln impressed me with its depth and spiciness, with hints of smoky notes, yet it remained fine and elegant on the palate, with good acidity and balance. Excellent. I also discovered a winery previously unknown to me—Bercher. Their Pinot Blanc from the Feuerberg Halsen was fresh, herbaceous, and compact on the palate. An exciting new addition for me. Excellent.

Pinot Gris as a GG? This remains a truly hotly debated issue—at least in Baden and Württemberg. What can I say? It would be easy to join the many voices that have been calling for the abolition of Pinot Gris as a GG for years. But would that really be fair? It’s too complex a question to definitively settle in a short review. Still, I do want to share a thought: in terms of quality, Pinot Gris certainly has its place as a GG. In Wiesbaden this year, there were indeed some very fine Pinot Gris wines at GG level, especially from Baden.

My real concern lies elsewhere: in the dilution of the GG brand. Internationally, it would benefit us to limit GG to a handful of grape varieties in order to position the brand more clearly. For reds, Spätburgunder; for whites, Riesling, Silvaner, and—perhaps in the near future—Chardonnay. The latter, in particular, is gaining traction in the Pfalz. This could make GG more distinct and recognizable. Clear lines and fewer varieties would strengthen the brand on the international market, provide consumers with better guidance, and, in the long run, could lead to higher prices for the wines. Many GGs certainly deserve that.

But enough theory—let’s get to the wines that truly left an impression on me.

Salwey’s 2021 Eichberg was fresh, spicy, and herbaceous on the nose. On the palate, juicy with lovely structure, taut acidity, and well-integrated oak. Compact and powerful. A real success. Excellent.

Heger’s 2022 Schlossberg showed dark spice, smoke, and bacon on the nose. On the palate, dense, salty, with taut acidity and a firm core. Great length. Absolutely impressive. Excellent. Same winemaker, different vineyard. The 2022 Vorderer Winklerberg also offered dark spice and smoke. On the palate, similarly compact and salty, with a firm core and vibrant acidity. Excellent.