Exploring the Stettener Stein

As we drive up the steep vineyards, Marius tells me about the geological conditions that make this site so special. “Here at the Stettener Stein, the dominant soil is middle shell limestone,” he explains as we drive through the first parcels in the southern part of the Stein. “This soil is rich in skeletal remains and sparse, but it retains heat excellently and forces the vines to root deeply. This gives the wines their characteristic minerality.” The climate of this site is influenced by air masses that rise along the rocks through natural thermals. They absorb the sun’s energy stored in the rock as warmth and flow through the vineyards up to the highest vine. In the Stein, there is almost always a mild to brisk wind.

When Footwear Becomes a Problem

The slope is impressive – gradients of 50 to 75 percent are not uncommon here. The site spans an elevation of 230 to 280 meters. As we drive through the core parcels of the Stein and get out for a small exploration, I realize that I have definitely chosen the wrong footwear for the day. Slippery boat shoes with smooth soles are not adequate gear for such steep slopes. Note to myself: “Boat shoes are better suited for sailing, Max!”

Marius enthusiastically moves from one row of vines to the next, telling me with great enthusiasm about the hard work required to produce characterful wines in the Stettener Stein. Meanwhile, I cling to a wire to make my next step. Marius laughs as he watches my cautious descent. “Yes, this is not for the faint-hearted. Every step needs to be well considered here.”

Diversity as the Key to Success

Unlike winemakers in comparatively famous Franconian sites like the Himmelspfad, Julius-Echter-Berg, or Klingenberger Schlossberg, the Knoll family focuses on a variety of grape varieties in the Stein. Although the leading varieties Riesling and Silvaner, with vines up to 80 years old, dominate, there is also an focus on the Burgundy varieties Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Pinot Blanc, and a newly planted parcel of Chardonnay. Additionally, some typical Franconian varieties such as Scheurebe and traditionalists like Traminer are included. Yes, even PIWIs like Cabernet Blanc can now be found in the local parcels of the Stein. Given the reputation of Weingut am Stein, it should come as no surprise that all varieties thrive here magnificently.

We stop at an especially beautiful spot. Marius leads me down to a small plateau with a view of the Main River, which meanders through the landscape like a sparkling ribbon. The vineyards of the Stein extend in a semicircular cut, acting like a natural concave mirror. “This formation helps to store the sun’s warmth and evenly warm the vineyards,” he explains.

Biodynamic. Sustainable. Responsible.

Another special feature of the Stettener Stein is the extensive biodynamic cultivation practiced here by the Knoll family. Marius takes me to a small vineyard hut where they are currently preparing biodynamic preparations. “We use natural preparations like horn manure, which is buried in cow horns during the winter. In spring, the composted manure is mixed with water and sprayed on the vineyards. This promotes microbial activity in the soil and strengthens the plants’ defenses,” he explains.

I admit, I am impressed by the dedication and knowledge behind these practices. “In conventional viticulture, we would rely on chemical agents,” Marius explains. “But here, we trust in the forces of nature, creating a healthy, sustainable, and vibrant ecosystem.”

Nowadays, almost all winemakers cultivate the majority of the parcels in the Stettener Stein organically or biodynamically. This is certainly thanks to the tireless work of Antonia’s father, Ludwig Knoll. Without his persuasive power and unwavering belief in the effectiveness of organic and biodynamic farming, the Stein would probably not be as lush and vibrant as I experienced during my visit.

Weingut am Stein: Pioneering Sustainable Viticulture

After exploring the vineyards, we return to the winery, which is picturesquely nestled in the “Würzburger Stein” site – not to be confused with the aforementioned Stettener Stein. The Weingut am Stein, run by Sandra and Ludwig Knoll, is a pioneer in sustainability. For over 30 years, the Knolls have been committed to organic, and now biodynamic, cultivation.

Here, in the cool cellar rooms below the winery, we taste some of the wines still maturing in tanks. Amphorae, concrete eggs, stainless steel tanks, and large and small, old and new wooden barrels – at Knolls, the cellar boasts a wide variety of aging methods. Marius hands me a glass of Silvaner, still young and unruly but already showing the fine minerality and clear expression of the Stettener Stein. „We give our wines up to two years to mature on the lees,” explains Marius. “This brings calm and composure to the wine.”

The Magic of Stein Wine

The passion and precision with which they work here are evident in every sip. The wines from Weingut am Stein are not just products; they embody a philosophy that sees winemaking as a holistic craft. “Our wines should bring joy and touch the heart, not just the mind,” says Marius with a smile. A pragmatic yet sensual thought. The wines from the Stettener Stein are certainly not cerebral.

As my visit comes to an end, we stand on the lower terrace of the winery, enjoying the warm afternoon sun. With a glass of Riesling in hand, I gaze over the winery’s garden. Starting in July, the now iconic “Wein am Stein” festival will take place here for almost three weeks. I think of the hard work that goes into every bottle of “Stein wine”. It is a moment of peace and enjoyment that puts the day’s exertions into the background.

The Stettener Stein is more than just a vineyard – it is a living testament to the connection between people and nature, tradition and innovation. And the wines produced here are true ambassadors of this unique landscape. They would not be so without people like Marius and the Knoll family, whose dedication, passion, and tireless work bring wines of international acclaim from this special corner of the world.