Some wines feel like stories poured into a glass – the 2022 Riesling Vineyard Blend from Weingut Prinz Salm is undeniably one of them. This blend of vineyard sites is rare for the Salms, as it’s only the third of its kind; previously, they released it from the 2015 and 2020 vintages. I hadn’t tried it before and was eager to see what awaited me. 2022 was a challenging year for German Riesling producers, yet the outcome here truly surprised me.
Max Kaindl, 02. November 2024
Lesezeit etwa 4 Minuten
Four premier VDP sites come together in this Riesling blend: Scharlachberg, Kirchberg, Johannisberg, and Felseneck. Each vineyard contributes its unique soil type: green slate in Felseneck – a true rarity in Germany, red slate and shale in Johannisberg, Taunus quartzite in Kirchberg, and iron-rich scarlet soil in Scharlachberg. Each soil tells its own story, layering complexity into the wine.
When tasting, I asked myself: is it possible to detect each soil profile distinctly? To be honest, not exactly. But it doesn’t need to be. Each soil type lends its strengths here, merging in the glass into a harmonious whole. Through the interplay of flavors and textures on the palate, one senses the mineral contributions of each terroir in a seamless, unified expression.
The musts from each vineyard are vinified separately and mature for a year on fine lees in large oak barrels before being blended into this vineyard cuvée. The result is a dense, powerful Riesling with remarkable depth.
Felix and Victoria’s ecological approach to viticulture is far more than a “green label.” It’s not just about organic certification but about fostering rather than fighting nature. Galloway cattle roam the Binger vineyard year-round, enriching biodiversity and naturally aerating the soil. A direct-seeding machine, which sows without fully tilling the ground, demonstrates how deeply the Salms consider soil preservation. For Felix and Victoria, healthy soils and sustainable agriculture are essential for creating expressive wines that truly reflect their origin. Their enthusiasm for these methods was infectious when we first spoke.
The label of the 2022 Vineyard Blend is a piece of art in itself. Designed by Sven Ochsenreither, it reflects a deep connection between art and nature. The artist explains that in his work, he aims to evoke visual memories while resonating with the familiar. His piece for Prinz Salm, titled “Fruit Basket,” references Caravaggio’s famous fruit basket and serves as a personal homage to one of the earliest autonomous still lifes. Ochsenreither reinterprets this classic through his own use of colors and forms, creating a dynamic blend of tradition and modernity. The label thus becomes more than mere decoration – it’s an invitation to experience the wine with the same complexity and reverence.
Enough preamble now. What does the 2022 Riesling Lagencuvée look like in the glass? I tasted the wine intensively several times over two days in order to better understand its development.
On the first day, the 2022 Riesling Vineyard Blend opens with wonderfully inviting aromas.
The nose reveals ripe stone fruits, with a hint of the exotic, fine stony notes, and fresh meadow herbs. A gentle mint note emerges, becoming more prominent with a bit of air, adding a captivating herbal dimension. A subtle touch of ginger spice lingers in the background, adding tension to the bouquet.
On the palate, the wine surprises with freshness and minerality. Here, the four sites shine through in salty notes framed by a delicate creaminess that lends fullness to the wine. Citrus nuances, a gripping phenolic structure, and ripe, well-integrated acidity create tension and depth.
The finish is long and firm, with that familiar ginger spice and ripe fruit notes. Even now, the wine reveals a distinctive charm, though the aromas haven’t fully harmonized yet.
On the second day, the wine feels more refined and elegant overall.
The fruit on the nose has softened, appearing lighter and more delicate, with intensified mint, a more refined ginger spice, and a hint of wasabi that gives the bouquet a subtle, cool note. The stony notes are still present, though less pronounced than the day before.
On the palate, the wine now unfolds with a creamier, softer texture and a gentle extract sweetness that lightly coats the body. The balance has notably settled, bringing all components together harmoniously, though I do miss some of the power and density of the first day.
The finish shows ginger again, accompanied by soft, bright fruit and a delicate creaminess that gives the wine a smooth and inviting flow.
This second day brings out more harmony and balance, creating a lively drinking experience that’s truly enjoyable.
For me, this wine captures both the challenges and potential of the 2022 vintage in an impressive way. The warmth of this hot vintage is evident, but it never veers into that overripe, jammy territory. Instead, the Vineyard Blend reveals incredible concentration and structure – firm and elegant at once. It’s like a prima ballerina with strong muscles – graceful yet full of energy and expression.
Personally, I don’t think this wine needs to rest in the cellar for the next ten years to shine. It already exudes a warm, powerful presence that immediately resonates with me, showcasing the passion and dedication Felix and Victoria Salm have poured into it. The depth, density, and impressive length left me genuinely surprised, reaffirming the exceptional skill and craftsmanship of these two winemakers.
With their Riesling Vineyard Blend, Prinz Salm demonstrates that wines not only reflect their origin but also embody the passion and conviction of their makers. The 2022 Riesling Vineyard Blend is a wine that respects nature and brings the soil to life. Anyone who has been to Wallhausen will understand that this wine is a tribute to the four sites and the uncompromising path that Felix and Victoria have chosen. A wine that lingers not just in the glass, but also in the soul.
