When you venture into the world of Riesling, you inevitably encounter Weingut Keller — or rather, you’re irresistibly drawn to it. But if you’re expecting yet another hymn of praise for Klaus Peter and Julia Keller, I’m sorry to disappoint. I’m not here to write the umpteenth piece celebrating the Kellers as demigods of winemaking. This is about the wines. Period. And what wines they are! At Bella’s Weinbar in early November, I had the rare opportunity to taste six wines from the 2016 Keller Box. An experience that, even for someone as seasoned as I am, was far from routine.
Max Kaindl, December 08, 2024
Reading time about 4 minutes
Keller Kiste 2016
About Weingut Keller – Myth vs Reality
Weingut Keller is, without exaggeration, an institution. Riesling from Flörsheim-Dalsheim that can stand shoulder to shoulder with the great wines of Burgundy? Absolutely. But what makes Keller so special? It’s their uncompromising quality and deeply rooted respect for nature. “Bringing the soil into the glass” — these words from Klaus Peter Keller are not empty phrases. Here, they work, research, and sometimes simply wait until nature is ready. The focus is not on quantity but on excellence, and you can feel that in every single wine.
But enough of the facts. Let’s get to the real star of the evening: the 2016 Keller Box.
A Vintage with Character
2016 was a year of extremes — a rollercoaster ride for winemakers across Germany. A wet spring and intense downy mildew pressure made the vintage seem doomed. Organic wineries, in particular, struggled under the weight of restrictions on their arsenal of treatments. But then came the turning point: a dry, sunny late summer followed by a golden autumn with cool nights saved the day.
The result? Classically structured dry wines, solid fruit-sweet Prädikatsweine, and some regional standouts. While the noble sweet wines lacked peaks, those who showed patience and worked late-ripening sites harvested exceptional quality. It’s a vintage that offers finesse and character, proving that perseverance and an unwavering commitment to quality pay off.
Tasting Notes
Hubacker Riesling GG, 2016
An elegant warrior. Juicy fruit, a hint of umami, and a mineral presence that hums in the background. Nothing is overdone here; instead, there are subtle herbal notes and a chalky, earthy minerality. The wine has grip — it’s not fully open yet but brimming with potential. The structure is there, the tension too.
This is a wine that knows exactly where it’s going: deep, elegant, and enduring. P.S. I can’t believe I forgot to take a photo of the wine…
Kirchspiel Riesling GG, 2016
Livelier, almost cheerful compared to the Hubacker. Kirchspiel is the extroverted sibling in the box, combining chalky freshness with vibrant citrus fruit. A perfect balance of approachability and complexity.
Kirchspiel wants to please — and does so effortlessly.
Morstein Riesling GG, 2016
The Morstein is a powerhouse. Reductive on the nose, almost stubbornly so. But on the palate, there’s an explosion of strength and structure, paired with a saline minerality I’ve rarely encountered.
This isn’t a wine you casually sip — it’s an experience.
Brunnenhäuschen “Abts E” Riesling GG, 2016
The Abtserde took me by surprise. A Riesling that functions like a haiku: minimalist, precise, yet infinitely profound. This isn’t about fruit — it’s about stone. Crushed rocks, pure minerality, and a grip that’s almost tangible.
For purists, this is a dream come true.
Hipping H.M. Riesling, 2016
The Hipping reminds me of a quiet observer who speaks only when the moment is right. Reductive, almost shy, but with incredible depth and precision. The touch of residual sweetness suits it perfectly. With some air, it reveals notes of fennel, citrus zest, and a hint of green tea.
For me, the hidden gem of the box and a wine truly worthy of Her Majesty (H.M.), The Queen.
G-Max Riesling, 2016
The G-Max is like the Messi of Rieslings: legendary, under constant scrutiny, and utterly brilliant. In 2016, it’s still somewhat closed, almost unapproachable, but the tension is palpable. This is a wine that breathes the soil: chalk, limestone, salinity — pure and unadulterated. There’s not a gram of residual sugar, just pure energy.
My first note on this? “Unattainable — and I mean that literally.”
In Summary
What lingers is a mix of reverence and joy. The 2016 Keller Box is a statement, now showing itself in a beautifully fresh drinking phase. Each wine tells a story, and together they form a mosaic you simply have to experience. Yes, Keller divides opinions, and yes, their wines are almost impossible to get. But let’s be honest: when they taste like this, none of that matters.
Pictures: © The Art of Riesling – Maximilian Kaindl
