Sometimes it doesn’t take a big stage or flashy prestige—just two brothers, a slope full of shell limestone, and a serious drive to make good wine. In early July, I visited Florian and Philipp Ehrlenbach in Reicholzheim. And what can I say? I went in curious, left surprised—and came back genuinely impressed.
Max Kaindl, August 04, 2025
Reading time about 3 minutes
Just Doing It
On the road in the Tauber Valley with Florian and Philipp Ehrlenbach
Between Frost and First
2024 has been brutal for many growers—and the Ehrlenbachs didn’t get off easy either. Frost wiped out nearly everything. What’s left? Tiny amounts—barrel by barrel—but wow, what a lineup. I got to taste through it: precise, focused, calm in the best way. There’s a sparkling wine coming that I already can’t wait for. And then there’s that Schwarzriesling First 2022… honestly, that was a moment. Dark cherry, delicate spice, juicy, cool, elegant. This is what Schwarzriesling can be when taken seriously. For me, one of the best examples of the variety I’ve ever tasted.
No Hype—Just Drive
Florian knows his craft. He’s been working in the cellar at Fürst for years, knows exactly what it takes to make top-tier wine—and now he’s pouring that know-how into their own project. Philipp handles everything else: keeps the farm running, drives the tractor, builds and fixes equipment. Two brothers, one goal—and zero ego. It’s not about prestige, it’s about substance.
The First—Their Prime Plot
We walked through First, the crown jewel of Reicholzheim. Shell limestone, red sandstone, meager soils—ideal for dense, structured wines. From here, you can see all the way to the Spessart. The climate? Cool. Locals call it “Baden Siberia.” But that’s exactly what makes it work. The wines are vibrant, fresh, and honest. Nothing feels forced—it all feels grown.
Time Over Tech—and Clear Priorities
Florian and Philipp farm about 4.2 hectares, all organically certified. Their focus: Burgundy varieties. Around 70% of their vines are Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and especially Schwarzriesling. That’s the heart of what they do. The rest? Small amounts of Silvaner, Müller-Thurgau, Pinot Blanc, and Pinot Gris. Everything’s hand-harvested, spontaneously fermented, aged in wood, and bottled unfiltered. Their philosophy is simple: less tech, more time.
More Conversation Than Tasting
Our exchange was so engaging and effortless that I completely forgot to take notes on all the wines. But let’s be honest—that’s exactly how it should be. Less theory, more experience. My advice? Go taste for yourself—it’ll say more than any tasting note ever could.
Bonus: A Piece of History
At the end, they took me to nearby Kloster Bronnbach, a centuries-old monastery where Cistercian monks once shaped viticulture in the Tauber Valley. Now Florian and Philipp are picking up that thread—not with nostalgia, but with respect. And with a clear mission: to put this region back on the map.
This Is Just the Beginning
What these two have built from the ground up is remarkable—not because it’s loud, but because it’s real. Grounded, thoughtful, full of energy—and anchored by a Schwarzriesling that sets the bar high. Anyone still thinking of the Tauber Valley as a wine no-man’s land needs to get out here. The trajectory is clear. And the path Florian and Philipp are carving out might just shake things up in the next few years.
Pictures: © The Art of Riesling – Maximilian Kaindl
