Bordeaux. Few wine regions command such reverence—yet also raise so many eyebrows. For some, it’s the epitome of prestige, tradition, and timeless class. For others: outdated, overpriced, and out of touch. Both views hold truth—and that’s exactly what makes Bordeaux so damn fascinating.
Max Kaindl, March 24, 2025
Reading time about 4 minutes
Bordeaux: Glory, Grit, and the Long Shadow of the Past
From Swamp to Royal Cellars
Let’s start at the beginning. Bordeaux isn’t just a wine region. It’s the benchmark. Since the 18th century, its châteaux have been supplying royalty, merchants, and later collectors and speculators. The famous 1855 classification? A clever PR stunt for the Paris World’s Fair, with the lasting impact of a tattoo on the soul of the wine trade.
The wines? Primarily blends of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, with occasional touches of Petit Verdot or Cabernet Franc—classic, structured, built to age. For decades, Bordeaux was the gold standard. Then came Parker in the 1980s, dishing out scores and hype—and Bordeaux exploded. Prices soared, the Place de Bordeaux became a global wine stock exchange, and names like Lafite, Margaux, and Latour turned into luxury brands. So far, so legendary.
Fame Fades. Reality Doesn’t.
But the shine has worn off. And deeply. Bordeaux has been in crisis for years. Why? Why?
Climate Change
It’s getting hotter, drier, more unpredictable. The classic style—elegance, freshness, structure—is hard to maintain when grapes ripen in fast-forward and alcohol levels skyrocket.
Overproduction
Bordeaux is massive. Over 100,000 hectares—more than all of Germany’s vineyards combined. That means lots of wine, but not all of it Château Margaux. Entry-level quality struggles in a market where demand is shrinking and New World wines offer more bang for the buck.
Image problem
For many younger drinkers, Bordeaux feels heavy. Complicated, elitist, lacking transparency—and expensive at the top end. While other regions thrive on authenticity, freshness, and innovation, Bordeaux often still screams “business as usual.”
Bordeaux Fights Back—with Open Eyes
But here’s the thing: Bordeaux wouldn’t be Bordeaux if it didn’t fight back. And change is happening—real, bold, sometimes painful transformation.
A few key signs:
Grape Revolution
Since 2021, new varieties are officially allowed. Marselan, Touriga Nacional, Arinarnoa—it sounds like the south of France or Portugal, but it’s happening in Bordeaux. A historic shift that shows the region is willing to question itself.
Organic & Biodynamic Surge
Once rare, now increasingly common. Château Pontet-Canet led the way—others followed. Sustainability isn’t just marketing fluff anymore; it’s a necessity.
Downsizing for Quality
Thousands of hectares are being pulled out. More than 10,000 already gone. A radical, but crucial, move. Less is more—something Bordeaux ignored for too long.
Stylistic Reset
Fresher, leaner, more precision. Less oak, lower alcohol. Young winemakers—often outsiders or returnees—are shaking things up. Estates like Les Carmes Haut-Brion, Château Le Puy, or Closeries des Moussis prove there’s another way.
So, What Now?
Bordeaux is at a crossroads. Some cling to the myth, others push for revolution. I believe the future lies in the middle. Stay true to your roots—but think modern. Less show, more soul. Less volume, more value. And most of all: listen. To growers. To markets. To wine lovers.
For me, Bordeaux remains endlessly compelling—and my first true red wine love. I’m drawn to its depth, its history, its incredible range—from family-run gems in Fronsac to Grand Cru icons in Pauillac. But I want more honesty. More bravery. More character. Not just polished labels and lofty price tags. Because wine isn’t a status symbol. It’s a reflection of where it comes from.
And Bordeaux? It has stories to tell—if it dares to tell them truthfully.
Pictures: © The Art of Riesling – Maximilian Kaindl
