There are places in the wine universe that operate entirely differently. No spotlight, no hype, no flashy marketing—just substance. J.J. Prüm is exactly that kind of place. A quiet legend on the Mosel, it speaks in whispers, not in shouts. I visited at the end of March, and what I tasted was fascinating—but also a clear signal.
Max Kaindl, April 07, 2025
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J.J. Prüm 2023 – When Legends Must Evolve
2023 – Highly charming. But is it Prüm?
This new vintage shows a surprising level of openness. Less reduction, less sulfur on the nose, and more fruit up front. The curtain that young Prüm wines usually keep drawn for years is already partially lifted. And yes, that brings charm—no doubt. The wines feel instantly inviting, even polished.
The Spätlese wines shine brightest: juicy, precise, with finesse, length, and energy. Pure class. But for me, the Kabinetts felt slightly overripe—lacking that electric tension and airborne lightness that make Prüm-Kabi so unforgettable at its best. It missed the sizzle, the nerve. And that, for me, is the real challenge.
Of course, this is high-level nitpicking. But honesty matters. I’m not the kind of critic who takes a machete to a vintage—that’s never been my style. I don’t aim to tear down—I aim to contextualize. And that means calling out quiet shifts when I see them.
My 2023 highlights
Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Spätlese, 2023
Delicate, juicy, pale yellow—this wine already dances with elegance on the nose. Cool depth, light blossoms, a hint of white pepper and red currant. On the palate: bell-clear, open, with a beautifully juicy texture. Densely woven but never heavy. The finish is embracing, elegant down to the last detail.
A Spätlese that speaks to both heart and mind.
Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese, 2023
Yellow-fruited and spicy, intense yet floating with ease. On the palate: pure energy. Racy acidity meets juicy density, all carried by a mountain-stream clarity. Not an ounce too much, nothing weighs it down—this is expression that doesn’t shout but sings.
Heaven-sent beauty.
Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese Goldkapsel, 2023
A powerhouse in a tailored suit. Highly concentrated yet delicate, with crystal-clear yellow fruit that’s ripe but never heavy. On the palate: astonishingly long, impeccably balanced, with the finest texture. The acidity runs like a current through the wine, while the fruit glows golden.
A textbook Auslese—and so much more.
Climate change demands new precision
The shift in ripening isn’t a theory anymore—it’s the new normal. Today, picking has to happen earlier, sharper, more uncompromising. Otherwise, grapes may be physiologically perfect—but stylistically off the mark. What used to be a virtue—waiting for ripeness—can now be a risk.
This hits especially close to home for a house like J.J. Prüm. Its reputation is built on tension, drive, longevity. On wines that need time—and reward you for giving it. To preserve that identity, old routines must be re-examined. What worked yesterday may not work tomorrow. The true artistry lies in staying true to your style without resisting the changes that nature demands.
The cellar remains a myth—the bottle speaks
At Prüm, the cellar is sacred—and off-limits. No guided tours, no winemaking tech talk, no trendy stylistic shifts. The focus is entirely in the vineyard. And it works—has for decades. When you taste a 2004 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese that still shows with crystalline brilliance and clockwork precision, you know: this is Riesling built for eternity.
But eternity doesn’t happen on its own. It must be earned—again and again—with open eyes, an alert mind, and the courage to recalibrate when conditions change.
Mature highlights
Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Spätlese, 2015
Spiced and matured, with clear mineral depth. Dried pineapple, a touch of red currant—finely interwoven, ripe yet vibrant. On the palate: crystalline, precise, and supremely elegant. A sweet-sour interplay that captivates and uplifts.
Delicate, inviting, beautifully balanced.
Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Auslese, 2015
Red-toned spice and bright intensity—deep, yet light on its feet. On the palate: bell-clear, vibrant, with red-fruited energy and striking precision. Not a gram of excess, just depth and radiance. Eternally long, highly refined, and wholly complete.
An Auslese that gets under your skin.
Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese, 2004
Cool, quiet, with glass-like precision. The nose is almost ethereal—subtle yellow fruit, barely any maturity, filled with air and light. On the palate, it flows like mountain water: crystal-clear, vibrant, balanced, full of finesse.
A delicate play across the palate, quiet yet powerful. Unforgettable.
Bernkasteler Lay Riesling Auslese, 1998
The essence of maturity and elegance. A cool nose, precise fruit, everything bell-clear—barely a hint of age, instead yellow stone fruit, freshness, depth. On the palate, a dancing masterpiece: perfect balance, lively acidity, endless length. So fine, so silent, so complete.
A liquid meditation.
Conclusion: Great wine, great responsibility
2023 isn’t a typical Prüm vintage. It’s more open, more charming, more direct—many will love it. But those who admire the Prüm style for what it is—cool, deep, idiosyncratic, timeless—will take a closer look. The Spätlese wines are outstanding. The Kabinetts reflect a vintage wrestling with new realities.
Prüm remains Prüm—if they continue to move with the times without losing their essence. That’s the path to staying legendary.
Pictures: © The Art of Riesling – Maximilian Kaindl
