The Beginnings: A Revolution in the Vineyard

In 1984, German wine was at its lowest point—at least in terms of reputation. Cheap, sweet, mass-market. For many, Riesling was associated with a “Pippi Longstocking” mentality: “I make my world the way I like it—and that means sweet.” A group of visionaries, including Erwein Graf Matuschka-Greiffenclau, Hans Ambrosi, and the Breuer brothers, had had enough. They sought to create a wine that celebrated Rheingau Riesling in its driest and purest form (at least by the standards of the time). Led by their efforts, a group of ambitious winemakers developed the concept of origin-focused Rheingau Rieslings with strict quality standards. CHARTA was born, setting new benchmarks for classified origin wines.

CHARTA wines still adhere to simple yet strict quality criteria: they must be balanced, classic Rheingau Rieslings, dry in style, and capable of long aging. All CHARTA wines come from the region’s best vineyards and must be made entirely from fully ripe Riesling grapes. To ensure quality, the wines are blind-tasted and approved only if they embody the distinctive CHARTA character. These “younger siblings” of vineyard-designated wines cannot be released until September 1st of the year following harvest.

The iconic brown Schlegel bottle with the Romanesque double arches on the capsule became a statement against mediocrity. The focus was on quality, origin, and a distinctive profile. CHARTA wines laid the groundwork for today’s Große Gewächse (Grand Crus) of the VDP. But while GGs are now considered the pinnacle of German winemaking, CHARTA seems to have faded into the background.

CHARTA Wines Across Four Decades

Four flights, each representing a decade, from 1983 to 2019. What struck me most was the longevity of these wines. Even a 40-year-old CHARTA Riesling had that unmistakable bite—dry, taut, with an elegance that only unfolds over time. But as cutlery quietly clinked on plates, the conversation turned: what has become of CHARTA’s original mission?

For some winemakers, like Johannes Eser of Johannishof, CHARTA Riesling remains a “wine of the heart.” For him, it’s more than just nostalgia—up to 15% of his annual production is CHARTA wine. But for many others, enthusiasm seems lukewarm. Why? Because for many consumers, the CHARTA brand has faded into obscurity, a niche product overshadowed by Große Gewächse and Erstes Gewächs.

Is CHARTA Still Relevant?

The truth is: CHARTA was once a revolutionary impulse. But the world has moved on. Its merger with the VDP in 1999 was logical but also stripped CHARTA of its independence. Today, just 13 wineries remain committed to the concept—down from 50 at its inception.

And yet, CHARTA wines are a piece of Rheingau identity, even German identity. They remind us that quality and origin take time. Perhaps this patience is hard for today’s fast-paced consumers to grasp. But without the patience, dedication, and conviction of those Rheingau winemakers 40 years ago, the revival of German fine wine in the 2000s might not have happened so quickly.

Opportunities for the Future?

What impressed me most during the celebration was the passion of young winemakers like Mark Barth, who doesn’t see CHARTA as a nostalgic relic but as untapped potential. Barth spoke about repositioning CHARTA—as a dependable companion at the table, a wine with character and substance.

But passion alone won’t suffice. CHARTA needs visibility. A wine without a story is just another bottle on the shelf. Perhaps it’s time to reinterpret the original idea—bolder, louder, more modern. For me, CHARTA wines, like Barth suggests, are versatile food wines—more approachable and often more harmonious than the tension-filled Große Gewächse. A clear, confident positioning—both in gastronomy and for consumers—could breathe new life into the brand and put it back in the spotlight.

A Personal Reflection—Looking Back and Forward

Two CHARTA wines stood out to me that day: Robert Weil’s 1983 Riesling and Spreitzer’s 2008 Riesling. “This is Rheingau at its finest,” I wrote in my notes. That clarity, that precision—that’s the allure of mature CHARTA wines. But these are wines to be experienced, not explained.

The 40th anniversary showed me that CHARTA still has a stage. The question is: who will step onto it? It’s up to the winemakers, but also to us as consumers, to embrace these wines. Perhaps CHARTA needs less of the past’s shine and more of the courage to face the future.

One thing is certain: great wines are born where passion, vision, and perseverance intersect. CHARTA has all of that. Now it just needs to be awakened once more.