375 Years of Wine, Pride, and Self-Perception

Rome was ruled by chaos, Vienna by the Habsburgs – and in Gamlitz, a man named Jerg Sabathi began planting vines. From humble beginnings, the family rose to become a dynasty of Styrian winemakers. Their journey took them from the Pilchenhof to the Knappenhof and finally to Leutschach, where Erwin Sabathi – or more precisely, Erwin Sabathi Jr. – runs the family estate today. 56 hectares are under vine, certified organic since 2009, spontaneously fermented, with a clear focus on premium quality.

And that ambition was tangible throughout the afternoon – not just in the glass. But more on that later.

Spotlight: Retter & Sabathi

The masterclass was expertly curated. Gerhard Retter, as charming and confident as ever, brought his signature Styrian wit – though he spent far too little time in the spotlight. Sabathi Jr., on the other hand, had a lot to say. About himself, his wines, Burgundy. And therein lay a small issue.

Because while the wines were good – and yes, many of them were very good – the constant comparisons to Montrachet, Grand Crus and Burgundy’s elite didn’t do them any favors. Quite the opposite. Instead of giving the wines room to breathe, it smothered them. Sometimes, less really is more – and more credible too.

The Wines: A Play of Light and Shadow

The tasting began with two anniversary bottlings from 2023: a Sauvignon Blanc and a Chardonnay. Both clean, precise, well made. Good wines. Perhaps not deeply moving, but a solid start.

Then came my secret star of the day: a matured 2017 Gelber Muskateller from Ried Krepskogel. Dry, grippy, almost austere – yet full of life and character. I had to do a double take. Fresh, youthful, vibrating with energy. A perfect example of aging potential in Styria. The Muskateller surprised everyone – including me.

Sauvignon Blanc Vertical (2017–2022)

Ried Pössnitzberg – the estate’s crown jewel. Including the tiny Kapelle parcel (2020 and 2021). The wines: powerful, concentrated, blockbuster-style. Not exactly finesse-driven, but full of tension and depth. The 2017? Past its prime for me – broad, ripe fruit, lacking precision. The 2018? Excellent – clear, focused, great grip. 2019 and 2021 were impressive with their density and freshness. Stylistically consistent, with a clear signature. It’s obvious: someone here knows what they’re doing.

Chardonnay Vertical (2017–2022)

Again, Pössnitzberg and Kapelle. But unlike the Sauvignons, the Chardonnays didn’t quite hit the same mark. Clean, structured, but often a bit too forced. Too much wood, too many Burgundy references.
The ambition: Grand Cru.
 The reality: ambitious single-vineyard wine. And that’s not a bad thing – just not Montrachet. When you constantly compare your own wines to the greats, you don’t give them the chance to stand on their own. Which is a shame – because they could have.

Pinot Noir 2021 & 2022

Then came the low point – and I say that deliberately, even if it’s provocative. Two Pinots that weren’t bad – but also far from what had been promised. Grippy tannins, decent structure, but missing real elegance. Burgundy level? More like a village wine with potential. And that’s totally fine! But it should be communicated as such. The gap between ambition and reality was wide here – and with every Burgundy reference, it only got wider.

My Takeaway?

A tasting full of highs and lows. Strong wines, weak moments – and a winemaker who sometimes got in his own way. I like strong personalities – and Erwin certainly is one. But I like it even more when the wines are allowed to speak for themselves. No doubt, some in the audience admired Sabathi’s confident, outspoken, honest nature. For me, it came across a bit over the top. That doesn’t mean I judge the man – because that day, I only met the winemaker, not the person behind him.

What remains is respect: For 375 years of winemaking history. For organic viticulture at the highest level. For the clarity in vintage expression – which was genuinely impressive. And for the fact that Weingut Sabathi is a true heavyweight in southern Styria.

What also remains is a sincere wish: Fewer comparisons. Less self-staging. More wine. Less ego.