It doesn’t happen often: three wines in one month that hit so precisely, they stick with you for days. But in March, these three did exactly that—surprising, inspiring, and deeply impressing me. What follows is a journey that spans the biodynamic stillness of Portugal, a radically fresh Alvarinho debut, and a Mosel sweet wine so emotional, it brought tears to my eyes.
Max Kaindl, April 07, 2025
Reading time about 4 minutes
Collector’s Gem –
My Latest Discoveries
Loureiro 2023 – Quinta da Palmirinha
Loureiro 2023 – Quinta da Palmirinha What a surge of energy! This Loureiro is miles away from the usual Vinho Verde cliché. No light, green fizz—this is about concentration, depth, and a near-meditative focus. On the nose: ripe honey layered with dried flowers, lemon balm, and a hint of Ricola herbal lozenge. On the palate: a balancing act between freshness and density—cool, almost crystalline in texture, yet incredibly expressive. Elderflower, citrus zest, a bit of hay and nutmeg, and loads of tension. The acidity is present but flawlessly integrated, stretching the finish for minutes. Arguably the most honest Loureiro I’ve ever tasted—and at just €7.50 ex-cellar, it’s absolutely insane.
Background: Fernando Paiva isn’t your average winemaker. A former history teacher, he runs his estate in Sousa (in the heart of Vinho Verde) like more of a garden of Eden than a traditional farm. Biodynamics not as marketing, but as belief. No filtration, no sulfur, but a patented method using chestnut flower extract. It sounds like alchemy—but the wines are pure, stable, and honest. With his grandson João, he tends the vineyards with the kind of patience and care you can taste in every drop. Quinta da Palmirinha proves what can happen when nature, experience, and intuition come together: quiet yet powerful white wines that etch themselves into your memory.
GuRi 2024 – VineVinu
Alvarinho with a wink. At first sniff, GuRi is a bit shy—but charming: floral, herbaceous, airy. Parsley, meadow herbs, white blossoms—playful and subtle. But then: sip. The wine doesn’t explode; it dances. A teasing, almost flirtatious acidity kisses the tongue, paired with a whisper of residual sugar so well judged it adds lift, not weight. Citrus, a touch of melon, green apple, a hint of fennel frond. Light yet structured. Not watery, but bright, fresh, and full of personality. It has Kabi vibes—but with a Portuguese twist. That’s what makes it so exciting.
Background: A debut with intention. VineVinu is the project of father-son duo Luís and Manuel Cerdeira—classic Soalheiro pedigree meets new-school thinking. Founded in 2024, already a talking point in 2025. And for good reason: what they’re doing is more than a “newcomer label”—it’s a promise. Manuel, young, sharp, and curious, studied viticulture in the UK and now brings a welcome sense of lightness to the region. If this is just the beginning, VineVinu is set to become a major player in Portuguese wine.
Zeltinger Himmelreich Riesling Beerenauslese 2006 – Markus Molitor
Sweetness as an art form. Yes, we know and love sweet Rieslings—but then Molitor comes along and takes it to a whole new level. This 2006 from the Zeltinger Himmelreich isn’t just opulent. It’s pure elegance, depth, and razor-sharp precision. The nose? Mango peel, orange oil, crushed slate, white pepper, and pollen—a whirlwind, but never too much. On the palate: silk, crystal, vibration. Waves of honey and ripe exotic fruit, perfectly balanced by electric acidity and a stony, smoky minerality. Everything moves, nothing weighs. The finish? Eternal. This is a wine that teaches humility—one that brought me to tears during a March tasting with Sebastian Molitor.
Background: Markus Molitor is a force of nature on the Mosel. He took over his father’s estate in 1984 at just 20 years old—with big ambitions. Today, he farms over 120 hectares, all steep-slope vineyards, and proves year after year what Riesling can truly be: dry, off-dry, or noble sweet—always precise, always full of character. Meticulous vineyard work, ultra-late harvest, extreme selection, long aging. Spontaneous fermentation in stainless steel and large oak casks—slow, cool, often lasting months. And his color-coded capsule system replaces the usual German classification: white for dry, green for off-dry, gold for sweet. Once you’ve seriously tasted Molitor, you understand: there are no compromises here—only excellence. Year after year, parcel by parcel. Molitor is mad—in the best possible way. And the estate is, in my book, beyond reproach. To bottle over 100 individual sites every year at this level of consistency? That’s legendary.
Pictures: © The Art of Riesling – Maximilian Kaindl
