Tamino – A Project of Ambition and Vision

Tamino is backed by several wineries committed to sustainable viticulture. At its core are robust Piwi grape varieties that require significantly fewer plant protection measures than traditional varieties. This not only reduces the ecological footprint but also brings an entirely new approach to winemaking.

But Tamino is more than just another Piwi project. The key difference is that the focus isn’t on the often esoteric and little-known grape varieties, but on a memorable name and a clear brand message. That could be the key to Piwi wines’ future success. Let’s face it: no consumer buys wine solely because it’s sustainable. Ultimately, quality must win out—this is the only argument that holds long-term.

The challenge? Winemakers currently enjoy considerable freedom in composing their Tamino wines. The only requirement is that at least 85% of the grape varieties used belong to the Piwi family. At first glance, this suggests diversity, but it also creates a stylistic challenge—more on that later.

Piwi Wines – More Relevant Than Ever

Long mocked as “eco-wines,” Piwi grape varieties have now proven they’re serious alternatives to classic varieties like Pinot Noir, Merlot, or Riesling. Varieties such as Cabernet Cortis, Monarch, or Prior now bring a depth and structure to the glass that was once unimaginable. Moreover, in times of climate change, Piwi wines aren’t just an environmentally friendly option—they’re often the more pragmatic choice. With less need for pesticides, lower water consumption, and greater resilience against extreme weather events, why wouldn’t we continue to push them forward?

But for Piwi wines to truly catch on, they must become more accessible. And that can only happen by using cuvée names or imaginative designations—just like Tamino. No one is going to pick a wine labeled “Cabernet Cortis” or “Monarch” if they’ve never heard of those grapes before. However, a strong brand with clear recognition can captivate consumers—provided the wine lives up to the label.

The Tamino Wines at the Tasting

Now for the exciting part: How do the Tamino wines stack up in direct comparison? The good news first: at a price point of 10–15 euros, these wines are excellently made. Some winemakers, such as Dreher, Schmidt, or Kuckuckshof, have even managed to bottle truly impressive wines—with density, balance, and complexity that demonstrate Piwi’s true potential. It’s clear that those focusing on these new grape varieties can achieve remarkable qualities.

However, the Tamino project is still in its formative phase. In my view, its biggest weakness lies in its lack of a distinct style. While other successful wine projects often display a clear signature—whether through a particular aromatic profile, structure, or recognizable character—each Tamino wine currently stands on its own. This makes it difficult for consumers to identify with the brand. Right now, when someone buys a bottle of Tamino, they aren’t quite sure what to expect.

Piwi – The Future of the Entry-Level Segment?

One thing is clear: the best Piwi wines can now compete with many “traditional” wines. But where do I see wines like Tamino in the medium term? Clearly as a complement—or even a replacement—for classic entry-level base blends. Their quality has improved to the point that Piwi wines no longer need to hide—especially when winemakers focus on them wholeheartedly.

That’s exactly what the tasting revealed: the most convincing wines came from the estates that devote 100% of their production to Piwi grape varieties. If you treat Piwi as merely a byproduct, you’ll at best remain solid. But if you commit fully, you can create wines that are true alternatives to classic varieties. And that, in my view, is the path that will lead Piwi wines to success—not as an eco-friendly sideline, but as a serious category with its own distinct character and profile.

Another crucial aspect for the future of Piwi wines is their placement in the best vineyards. So far, we’ve seen Piwi wines almost exclusively from peripheral sites, where even traditional varieties tend to yield only average results. The full potential of these new grape varieties will only emerge when they’re planted in top terroirs. Only when winemakers dare to cultivate and craft Piwi wines with the same ambition as classic top wines will we see the true quality these varieties can achieve. What does that take? Time and courage on the part of the winemakers.

Tamino is on a promising path, but it’s not there yet

Tamino is a fantastic idea that shows where winemaking can go—sustainable, resilient, and ready for the future. The early vintages prove that the potential is enormous. Particularly the warmer vintages, like 2018 and 2019, have left a lasting impression on me. However, there is still work to be done: Without a clearer stylistic direction and a more unified brand identity, it will be difficult to elevate Tamino beyond an intriguing footnote in the Piwi universe.

But if wineries set the right course, Tamino could, in a few years, become a benchmark for modern, sustainable red wines in the entry-level segment. Then it would be more than just another wine project—it would be a true statement for the future of winemaking.

Another point that could enrich the Tamino project would be an equivalent white wine cuvée made from Piwi varieties. In my view, there are now more convincing white Piwi wines than red ones, and the market is also developing in this direction: while red wines are losing market share, the demand for white wines – especially in the entry-level segment – is steadily increasing. A high-quality Piwi white wine cuvée could perfectly complement Tamino’s portfolio and further strengthen the project.