A new wine, a world premiere: “Auf dem Kalkofen” Riesling 2023 from the Battenfeld-Spanier winery will be exclusively distributed via Place de Bordeaux. This is an absolute rarity, with only 6,000 bottles produced and available from April onward. The official launch is set for next week in Paris—a significant step in the international recognition of Germany’s top-tier Riesling, and I had the privilege of tasting it in advance.
Max Kaindl, February 7, 2025
Reading time about 5 minutes
World Premiere:
Auf dem Kalkofen Riesling 2023 by Battenfeld-Spanier
The Newcomer with a Big Name
“Auf dem Kalkofen” hails from the cool Zellertal, an ancient cultural landscape that has been dedicated to viticulture for over 1,000 years. Here, on the eastern edge of the valley between the legendary Grand Crus Frauenberg and Schwarzer Herrgott, lies the “Auf dem Kalkofen” parcel. Although it was once renowned for its outstanding quality, it disappeared into obscurity—classified as the single vineyard Silberberg—after the reform of the German Wine Law in 1971. With the 2023 vintage, Carolin and H.O.. Spanier-Gillot are restoring its identity, and the site has now been reclassified as a VDP First Growth.
The soils here are extremely rich in lime, with little clay and a high proportion of active lime. These geological conditions define the character of the wine, endowing it with impressive tension and minerality. The vinification is carried out strictly biodynamically: spontaneous fermentation with wild yeasts, followed by aging in traditional 1,200-liter foudres.
Within the Battenfeld-Spanier portfolio, “Auf dem Kalkofen” holds a special place. It is the second wine—or rather, the “sibling wine”—to the legendary C.O., an icon in the world of Riesling. The term “second wine” hardly does justice to this Riesling monument. While the C.O. remains an absolute rarity with just 1,200 bottles per vintage, “Auf dem Kalkofen” now offers, for the first time, the opportunity to experience the fascinating style of this terroir on a slightly larger, yet no less exclusive, scale.
Tasting Notes
Note: I tasted the wine over three days and give my summarized impression here.
Auf dem Kalkofen Riesling, 2023
The very first encounter is electrifying: a crystal-clear, salty-smoky stone aroma that precisely heralds the character of limestone. Citrus notes—lemon zest, kumquat, and grapefruit—dance within a bright, stony minerality, almost ethereally accented with white pepper, ginger, and a hint of smoky rock dust. There’s hardly any fruit, but what emerges is maximum tension and a purist elegance that unmistakably speaks of its origin.
On the palate, the wine unfolds with an incredible balance that practically vibrates across the tongue. The salty-piquant minerality—a direct expression of the lime-rich soil—is interwoven with a taut, almost steely acidity, like a steel cable spanning the entire mouth. Simultaneously, the Riesling reveals a slight creaminess and depth, finely laced with hints of crushed stone, salt, and bright citrus freshness. A subtly dark, spicy note emerges late, perfectly rounding off the complex interplay.
The finish is long, monumental, and almost meditative—a lingering echo that continues to caress the palate and encapsulates the tasting experience with its intensity. A wine that could easily be mistaken for a Chablis Grand Cru.
A Lasting Impression
The “Auf dem Kalkofen” Riesling 2023 electrifies, polarizes and captivates everyone with its intense, profound expressiveness. It is a wine that leaves you stunned – intense, deep and at the same time incredibly accessible in its very own way. An absolute must for all Riesling freaks and those who want to become one. Once you’ve tasted it, you’ll be a fan forever.
Pictures: © The Art of Riesling – Maximilian Kaindl
