A Friday afternoon in early November. Siefersheim reveals its autumnal charm: mist drifting over gentle porphyry hills, hesitant rays of sunlight breaking through the clouds. The perfect backdrop for a visit to Weingut Wagner-Stempel. Oliver Müller, Daniel Wagner’s right hand, guided me through a deep dive into the 2023 vintage – a year of extremes, but also great opportunities.
Max Kaindl, December 29, 2024 Reading time about 5 minutes
Wagner-Stempel 2023: Extremes, Precision, Character
Wagner-Stempel: Volcanic Roots, Clear Vision
Weingut Wagner-Stempel stands for uncompromising quality and a distinctive style. Located in Siefersheim, a village straddling the border of Rheinhessen and the Nahe, also known as “Rheinhessen’s Switzerland,” it merges two worlds: the volcanic porphyry soils of the Nahe and Rheinhessen’s chalky richness. This duality gives Wagner-Stempel wines their unique identity.
Daniel Wagner took over the estate in the 1990s, transforming it into one of Germany’s top wineries through organic viticulture and an unwavering focus on terroir. His tireless work, alongside a few like-minded pioneers, has been instrumental in raising the reputation of Rheinhessen wines – a legacy that continues to shape the region’s standing today.
His vineyards, including Höllberg and Heerkretz, rank among the finest in Germany. Vineyard work is done entirely by hand – from canopy management to selective harvesting and yield reduction. In the cellar, Wagner employs a minimalist approach, favoring large oak barrels from German forests to emphasize minerality and purity. This restrained philosophy imparts an unmistakable character to his wines.
The 2023 Growing Season: A Year of Extremes
The 2023 vintage epitomizes the challenges of climate change. A mild, rainy winter delayed budburst until April, benefiting vine vitality. May brought sudden summer-like heat, causing rapid growth. The flowering period was near ideal, but June saw intense drought. In July and August, conditions shifted dramatically: local storms, heavy rains, and hail posed risks to ripening grapes. Siefersheim was fortunate to avoid the worst, but crop thinning was crucial.
September brought another shift. A record-hot, sunny month accelerated ripening, prompting quick reactions from harvesting teams to salvage fruit threatened by rot. Rieslings, however, thrived under stable conditions into late September and October.
The 2023 Vintage in the Glass: Concentration and Structure
Riesling Gutswein, 2023
As fresh as an autumn morning. Bright yellow fruits and a hint of citrus on the nose.
Juicy and lively on the palate, with a zesty acidity that makes your mouth water.
A Gutswein that embodies Siefersheim’s strengths: clarity, structure, drinkability.
Porphyr Riesling 2023
A cool, almost austere nose with delicate spice and subtle fruit.
The palate is vibrant, with racy acidity and deep, mineral-driven texture.
Elegance meets substance in a wine that demands patience – and richly rewards it.
Rotliegend Riesling, 2023
The first impression is iron, wet stone, and subtle spice.
On the palate, it’s almost steely, with razor-sharp precision and firm acidity.
No frills, no soft edges – a purist’s Riesling, straight and uncompromising.
Rotliegend Riesling, 2018
Mature yet fresh. Notes of red berries and gentle spice on the nose.
Compact on the palate, with rugged but well-integrated phenolics.
A typical 2018, but with remarkable freshness, showcasing how expertly handled Rieslings can age gracefully, even in challenging years.
Melaphyr Riesling, 2023
Fine white blossoms and a whisper of citrus – a delicate opening.
But the palate speaks differently: zesty, racy, with steely precision.
A gripping wine with exceptional aging potential.
Höllberg Riesling GG, 2023
Deep, complex aromas of spicy minerality and ripe fruit.
The palate balances contrasts: creamy texture meets taut structure, ripe fruit meets vibrant acidity.
The finish? Long, firm, and impressive.
Heerkretz Riesling GG, 2023
Stony, salty, almost electric. Grapefruit and cool stone on the nose, with structure and grip on the palate.
Vibrant, demanding, with a long, salty finish.
A masterpiece that needs no explanation.
Scharlachberg Riesling GG, 2023
Yellow fruit with a hint of herbs on the nose.
The palate is taut, herbal, with noticeable phenolics.
Not yet fully balanced, but promising. To me, the “weakest” of the three GGs.
Sylvaner Reserve, 2023
Classic Silvaner: fennel, spice, elegance.
Creamy and compact on the palate, with a slight smoky accent.
Dense and tight, a wine that needs time – and deserves it.
Chardonnay Reserve, 2022
Subtly oaky, refined, and charming.
Fresh and juicy on the palate, with green fruit, creamy texture, and taut acidity.
The salty finish leaves you wanting more.
A Chardonnay with style and class.
Siefersheim: A Field of Tension
Siefersheim, at Rheinhessen’s western edge, blends Nahe’s minerality with Rheinhessen’s richness. This tension defines its wines: austere yet profound, pure yet expressive.
The 2023 wines from Wagner-Stempel are powerful, structured, and incredibly precise. They demonstrate that even in extreme years, exceptional results are possible. Rarely has a Riesling vintage impressed me as deeply in its breadth and depth as Wagner-Stempel’s 2023 collection. Missing these wines would mean missing a chapter of modern German winemaking mastery.
Pictures: © The Art of Riesling – Maximilian Kaindl
