The VDP Debate: Temptation or Misstep?

In recent months – at fairs, tastings, and winery visits – I’ve heard the same idea again and again: the VDP is considering classifying Chardonnay as a VDP.GROSSES GEWÄCHS. In the Pfalz, especially, the appetite for that next step seems strong. In Baden, Chardonnay GGs already exist – and that, I believe, was a mistake. The message it sends is too early, too broad, too risky. Because, quite simply, we’re not there yet.

Exceptions Prove the Rule – But They’re Rare

Yes, there are exceptions – handcrafted, characterful wines of real depth and energy. But they’re rare, very rare. And that’s precisely the issue: we don’t yet have the consistent quality across regions to justify classifying Chardonnay as a VDP.GROSSE LAGE. Not yet.

Why? Because Chardonnay in Germany is still in its learning phase. Across the board, we’re missing that delicate instinct for balance. Too often, oak is seen as a shortcut to complexity – not as a tool. The result: too much toast, too much vanilla, too much weight. And with that, the wine loses what makes it great in the first place: tension, harmony, length.

Quality Takes Time – Not Labels

Perhaps the problem starts even earlier, in the vineyard. Chardonnay is brutally honest – it mirrors exactly what you give it. Train it too generously and you get width instead of precision. Pick it too early and you get hardness instead of finesse. Choose the wrong style of élevage, and you’re left with a wine without soul.

Of course, it’s a good sign that more top estates are dedicating themselves to Chardonnay with real intent. The progress in recent years has been remarkable – both in quality and style. But that doesn’t mean we should rush the next step.

When Greatness Becomes a Risk

Because once the VDP opens the door wide for Chardonnay GGs, it won’t easily close again. And inevitably, wines will appear that don’t deserve to carry the “Grosses Gewächs” label. Mediocrity written in bold letters – no variety can afford that, least of all one competing on such a fierce international stage.

And one thing is often overlooked: a VDP.GROSSE LAGE classified for Riesling is not automatically a VDP.GROSSE LAGE for Chardonnay. Terroir is no free pass. What gives Riesling its tension, precision, and cool elegance can make Chardonnay feel hard and austere. Conversely, a warmer, deeper soil that flatters Chardonnay with richness and creaminess can strip Riesling of all its grace. Origin is no copy-paste concept – it must be rethought for every variety.

Responsibility Over Rash Decisions

The VDP has set global standards with Riesling over decades. That reputation is worth protecting. A Chardonnay GG that wants to compete internationally must deliver from day one – depth, longevity, sense of place, and character. There’s no room for “we’re still getting there.” The system is too strong, the expectations too high.

Look at Austria: the ÖTW winemakers have shown how to introduce a classification the right way. Step by step. First, gather experience, then classify. First, understand what works, then define what’s great. Why should we do it any differently?

A Case for Patience

I’m calling for patience – not out of fear, but out of respect. Let’s give ourselves another ten, fifteen years to explore, to learn, to taste. Let’s see how these wines age and evolve. Then, and only then, can we launch Chardonnay GGs that make an impact – wines that excite, that inspire, that prove Germany can be world-class here too.

But until then, there’s one thing we shouldn’t do: congratulate ourselves too early.
Because those who run too fast usually trip over their own ego.