When two wines step into the ring like heavyweight champions—both from 2017, both Riesling, both from legendary producers—you know this won’t be a gentle spar. This is about depth, origin, and what lingers long after the noise fades. I was curious, so I put the 2017 Saumagen R Spätlese trocken from Koehler-Ruprecht (Pfalz) head-to-head with Trimbach’s 2017 Frédéric Emile (Alsace). Two countries. Two giants. One vintage. A 2017 Riesling culture clash at the highest level.
Max Kaindl, July 6, 2025
Reading time about 3 minutes
Pfalz vs. Alsace: Saumagen R vs. Frédéric Emile
What unites them
Both of these 2017s are Rieslings of remarkable inner tension. They radiate that quiet authority only great vintages possess—ripe fruit without opulence, power without pretense, acidity with intention. It’s that elusive balance of structure, length, and transparency that makes it clear: everything came together here.
In both cases, 2017 delivered a rare synergy—fully ripe fruit paired with razor-sharp acidity. No heaviness, no flab. Just vibrant energy. Both wines are defined by their internal architecture, like blueprints for longevity drawn with precision and purpose.
What sets them apart
The Saumagen R is a monument. Darker, denser, almost monolithic in texture. Yellow fruit, tobacco, chalk—it arrives with gravity and grace, the kind that commands silence. This isn’t a Riesling for the terrace. This is Riesling for the ages. Harvested at perfect ripeness, raised on lees, matured in bottle—everything here is dialed in for concentration, depth, and expression.
Frédéric Emile, by contrast, wields a rapier. No ballet, no lightweight—but also no sledgehammer. Citrus, herbs, fennel, a touch of salt—it dances, turns, glows. It wants to be understood, not just admired. And that’s exactly what makes it so compelling. Trimbach works with stainless steel, no malolactic, no frills—and yet this is no cold child of technique. It’s a child of precision.
Why?
The reasons lie in style, philosophy, terroir. In the Pfalz, the Saumagen brings its famed mix of limestone and loess—and with the R selection, every detail is sharpened further. The wine feels almost baroque, but without fat.
In Alsace, it’s marl and sandstone underfoot, with a more continental climate—higher acidity, more golden fruit. Trimbach vinifies bone dry, with an almost purist mindset—and 2017 gave them ideal conditions to do just that.
My verdict
Pfalz vs. Alsace. Two great wines. Two different schools of thought. One is Burgundy with German precision. The other: Saar with a French soul.
If you’re after depth, density, and monumental calm—go for Saumagen R. If electric finesse with salty grip is your thing—reach for Frédéric Emile.
Me? I’ll take both. And a little humility on the side.
Pictures: © The Art of Riesling – Maximilian Kaindl
