A visit to Ilbesheim that raises more questions than it answers – in the best possible way.

Max Kaindl, June 19, 2025
Reading time about 3 minutes

Kalmit Calling – Spring at Kranz

A Place Steeped in History – And Full of Promise

Ilbesheim in the Southern Palatinate. At first glance, a sleepy wine village; at second, a dynamic microcosm of ambitious viticulture. Weingut Kranz sits on the edge of town, nestled in vineyards with a long history – and in the midst of a present that’s being reshaped.

Because now, with Xaver Kranz, the next generation is stepping up. Young, sharp, wide awake. No performance, no theatrics – just someone who takes his role seriously while bringing fresh energy to the table. You sense it immediately: this isn’t a handover, it’s a continuation. A rethinking. The foundation was laid by his father Boris – clear-sighted, limestone-loving, and bold enough to bet on the Kalmit long before others even saw the potential.

Vineyards That Speak for Themselves – Seligmacher, Kirchberg, Kalmit

The first impression always comes from the vineyard. And at Kranz, it’s unmistakable: terroir is at the center.

Seligmacher

Seligmacher, with its Rotliegend soils, feels welcoming, almost gentle. The wines here are juicy yet structured – Rieslings with a calm pulse.

Kirchberg

Kirchberg is another beast entirely. Leaner, stonier. The air here barely moves. Wines from this site radiate warmth and concentration; they need time and oxygen. And they show clearly: this character doesn’t come from the grape variety alone – it’s about soil, aspect, and a mindset rooted in the vineyard.

Kalmit

And then there’s Kalmit. This site is resolute. A “false” south-facing slope, crisscrossed with chunks of limestone and only a light layer of loess. The wines are not showy – they’re sharp, linear, with a salty texture. This style is exactly what had stunned and thrilled me at the VDP previews in Wiesbaden over the last two years. That’s why I’m standing here now – in the middle of the very vines that, to me, send the clearest, most exciting Riesling message in the Southern Palatinate.

The only thing I found myself wondering as I walked the Kalmit:
Why isn’t more Chardonnay and Pinot Noir planted here?
The microclimate and soil are practically paradise for the Burgundian set.

A New Cellar, a New Momentum

Back at the estate, we head down into the cellar. It’s modern, clean, functional. No architectural statement, no frills – just a space designed for work. Efficient, clear, precise. The new facility reflects a philosophy that prioritizes clarity over complexity. The goal: better conditions, more calm, more precision.

The barrel samples speak that exact language. Still developing, sure – but already with a sense of direction. No makeup, no gimmicks. Just taut structure, cool aromatics, fine phenolics. The wines feel deliberate, not staged.
Most exciting: the wines from the Kalmit – with that razor-sharp texture and bright, chalky aromatic thread running straight through them.

Time Flies – and Leaves Questions Hanging

Originally, we’d planned to taste through the current lineup. That didn’t happen. Not out of negligence – but because our time in the vineyards and the cellar was so engaging, so focused, that everything else faded into the background. There wasn’t a single wasted moment. But also not a single one left over.
And honestly? That’s okay.
Because this visit left me with something that went far beyond ticking off a tasting sheet. It was a deep dive into a winery that’s very consciously taking its next step – showing how heritage, family roots, and a forward-looking mindset can come together and grow into something more.

Why Kranz Feels Especially Relevant Right Now

Weingut Kranz was never one of the loud ones – but always one of the quietly consistent players. Joining the VDP in 2012 was a milestone. Getting the Kalmit officially recognized as a single site: a breakthrough. And now, with Xaver, there’s a next generation charging the whole thing with fresh energy. Not disruptive, but deliberate.

It’s that trio of soil, attitude, and precision that defines the wines. No overripeness, no technical shortcuts. Just dry, clean, unadorned wines that speak of their place. Almost Nordic in character at times. And that’s what makes them so compelling – this calm intensity that radiates from the Kalmit and its neighboring sites.

What I took home

The feeling of a winery that hasn’t peaked – because it’s still evolving. The visit to Kranz wasn’t a curated show. It was an honest behind-the-scenes glimpse. And sometimes, that’s exactly what lingers the longest.

I’ll taste the finished wines another time.
But the sense that something truly good is taking shape here – that’s already packed in my bag.
And maybe, just maybe, that’s the best possible start to a longer story.

Pictures: © The Art of Riesling – Maximilian Kaindl

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