Hattenheim, early summer. The Rhine flows wide and slow past the rows of vines, sunlight shimmers over the loess-loam soils. And I’m standing in the courtyard of the Barth wine and sparkling wine estate – a place that seems quiet at first glance, yet has so much to say.
Max Kaindl, June 19, 2025
Reading time about 4 minutes
Right in the Heart of the Rheingau –
Visiting Mark Barth
Rooted in Hattenheim
Weingut Barth is located in Hattenheim, right at the heart of the Rheingau. This is where the Rhine fans out like a mirror, reflecting sunlight onto the south-facing slopes. A picture-perfect setting – and a privileged one in terms of climate. The vineyards are sheltered and sit on a mosaic of soils: from gravelly loess-loam to clay, marl, slate, and quartzite.
This geological diversity runs like a common thread through the estate’s wines and sparkling wines. Riesling and Pinot varieties take root in sites like Hassel, Wisselbrunnen, Schützenhaus and Hallgartener Hendelberg.
Since taking over the family estate from Christine’s parents in 2009, Mark and Christine Barth have quietly but decisively transformed the business. The estate is certified organic, farmed with a deep respect for the land, focused on vibrant soils and sustainable cycles. And, most notably, it has become a serious sparkling wine house. Not just an idea – but a lived conviction.
Sparkling Wine as a Mission, Not a Byproduct
What makes Barth stand out: here, sparkling wine isn’t an afterthought. It’s not a way to use up leftover grapes. It stands side by side with still wine – roughly 50:50, with a rising share. And what’s being produced here has depth, substance, and a strong sense of identity.
Everything is done in-house. Hand harvesting. Gentle pressing. Traditional bottle fermentation. Manual riddling on wooden racks. Disgorgement by hand. The base wines are made with the same care and precision as a top-level Grosses Gewächs – and you can taste it.
Mark is not just a winemaker – he’s a visionary. As deputy chairman of the VDP Rheingau, he has been instrumental in pushing for sparkling wines to be classified according to VDP criteria. A long-overdue move – and one that Barth helped drive forward.
Tasting
Fleur de Blanc, Brut
Scheurebe, 12 months on lees.
Aromatic and floral on the nose – an instant mood-lifter. Light, lively and playful, a charming aperitif that flatters without ever tipping into kitsch.
Pinot Blanc, Brut 2021
20 months on lees, fine mousse.
Notes of herbs and grass, stone fruit, a touch of sweetness at the core. Understated elegance with a calm, balanced style. A sparkling wine that needs – and deserves – time.
Pinot Rosé, Brut 2020
Drinks like a handful of freshly picked red currants.
Fine mousse, lively acidity, everything in place. Not too serious, but certainly not lightweight either. High fun factor.
Ultra Pinot Noir, Brut Nature 2018
6 years on the lees.
Light-footed and precise, with delicate red berries and vibrant freshness. Long, linear finish. Incredibly elegant with super-fine mousse. If I had to nitpick: a touch more grip would’ve made it iconic. Still – seriously impressive.
Pinot Noir ROT, Brut 2015
8 years on lees – and it shows.
Aromatically closer to a mature, dry Pinot Noir with a brioche twist. Fine bubbles, almost Burgundian texture on the palate, with a hint of tannin and toast.
Unconventional – and that’s what makes it so captivating.
Riesling, Extra Brut
3 years on the lees. Much more serious than the Brut.
Fresh, precise, slightly drying on the finish, with plenty of tension. Doesn’t try to please – and that’s exactly why I like it.
Schützenhaus Riesling, Brut Nature 2019
Citrus peel, herbs, brioche. Ultra-fine mousse. Precise, vertical, a hint of bitterness in the best possible way.
A sparkling wine that challenges – and lingers.
Hassel Riesling, Brut Nature 2019
For me: the standout.
Dark-toned, nutty, almost smoky. Not about fruit, but all about structure. Fantastic length, cool phenolics, gripping acidity – and that finish with red currant? Wow.
The Person Behind the Wines
Mark Barth himself is something of a contradiction. Quiet, almost introverted on one hand. But razor-sharp in what he wants and where he’s going. He thinks long-term, yet knows exactly where he stands. And all of that without ever losing his approachability – no ego, no pretense.
For me, this visit was more than just another stop in the Rheingau. It was a bit of a revelation – especially when it comes to Riesling Sekt. A reminder of just how good craftsmanship can taste when it’s taken seriously. If you want to understand where German grower sparkling wine stands today – and where it could be headed – Barth is unmissable. One of the most exciting names in the Rheingau right now.
Pictures: © The Art of Riesling – Maximilian Kaindl
